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All things hiking Skills tips Suggested things to do Winter

Deciding to book a winter skills course is a matter of safety in the hills. You definitely don’t want to be the one who’s on the wrong end of a call to mountain rescue. Most rescue callouts stem from navigational error, but not being prepared for the wild conditions can be a contributing factor. The Cairngorms offer some of the most consistent full-on winter conditions for the aspiring winter walker. Learning here under the expert tutelage of experienced, qualified guides is an experience which will stand you in good stead for the rest of your life.

 

– more than just learning how to use your ice axe and crampons.

 Andy Bateman of Scot Mountain Holidays gives you some of his experience as a result of 20 years of coaching winter skills and navigation in the Cairngorms.

 

As the first snows arrive on the mountains many hang up their hiking boots. They wait until spring to go out again. Yet if you continue to head out throughout the winter, you could have some sensational days out. Cold air holds less moisture so on a clear day the views go in forever, the horizon crystal clear. The wonderful Jack Frost creation that is rime ice marks the air flow aroundevery stone and boulder. This is all the result of freezing hill fog on the wind. Older lying snow is scoured by the wind to produce the wonderful flutings. These are called Sustrugi. All these natural sculptures interplay with the soft light of a winters day.

winter skills course scotland

All kinds of natural sculptures appear in the hills during winter

Photo caption & credit: The snow turns the Cairngorm plateau into a place of beauty (taken by Andy Bateman, Scot Mountain Holidays)

Of course this environment isn’t without its hazards. It is no place for the ill prepared. Once trained in the essential winter skills there’s a very special sense of privilege. This comes from being able to exist confidently and comfortably in this hostile yet pristine and beautiful winter wonderland.

Weather conditions in the mountains

The conditions on the British mountains in winter are often as varied as the weather that’s created them. You need a good variety of skills at your disposal. Your winter boot is just as much a tool as your axe or crampons. It needs to be of adequate stiffness.  On steep snow and ice covered ground good footwork is the watchword. Your approach should be from the perspective of prevention rather than cure. You should try step kicking and cutting or crampon techniques before resoring to the techniques of self-belay and self-arrest.

winter skills course scotland

Self-arresting on a winter skills course in the Cairngorms

Photo caption: Practising winter skills in the Cairngorms –  the classic feet first on your front self-arrest (5 day winter skills course with Scot Mountain Holidays)

Self arrest skills

Knowing though, that when all else fails, you can confidently and quickly stop a sliding fall, with or without an axe is a fantastic fillet to your confidence. Some of the self-arrest techniques are straight forward enough but others are not; sliding head first on your back is a case in point. Understanding the body position that is required for the forces of gravity to work in your favour is all important; in one fluent move you flip you’re yourself onto your front whilst swinging your legs beneath you – easy when the dynamics and body posture have been clearly explained.

Being safe in a whiteout

For many the step up in navigation standard that’s demanded by the winter mountains is often the biggest challenge of all. Here the right approach is crucial and accuracy comes in a number of forms and levels. Being totally reliant on the absolute accuracy in your compass bearings and dead reckoning techniques (timing and pacing) has been the unravelling of many an aspiring Mountain Leader.  In the often flat light conditions of winter, contour interpretation becomes even more imperative yet perceived poor visibility encourages folk to abandon this vital skill.

Many good mountain navigation techniques come in under the heading of “error management”. Some of these techniques will be familiar to the experienced: aiming off, collection features and attach points but these are just a few of the techniques that can be used to make life easier in the winter mountains. Good winter navigation skills could be the difference between stay on safe ground and straying onto that that is prone to a slide.

navigation

Highly skilled micro-navigation in practice

Photo Caption: Winter micro-navigation using Andy’s patented timing and pacing chart (winter navigation course with Scot Mountain Holidays)

Avalanche prediction and risk

Evaluating Avalanche hazard is another subject difficult to get a handle on. There are though pertinent points that, when borne in mind at the planning stage, can already be starting to reduce your chances of ever being caught in an avalanche. Yes, you could start avalanche hazard evaluation in the summer months long before the snow has arrived! It is of course though, an ongoing process of monitoring right through to the end of the trip and not least of which is viewing and understanding the avalanche forecast.

If you would like to discuss any of the points Andy raises in his article, please don’t hesitate to call him on 01479 831 331

Remember that Andy’s experience has been gained over 17 years of living and working in the Cairngorms. He aims to give you as much knowledge as he can while you’re here but it’s only in practicing the skills he introduces that you’ll gain proficiency yourself.

 

RELATED BLOGS

Top 10 winter skills tips

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How to choose a walking ice axe for a winter skills course?

Why go walking in winter in Scotland?

How do I prepare for a winter skills course?

 

Thinking of going on a snowhole expedition?

The best way to build a snowhole

Andy Bateman of Scot Mountain Holidays leads at least 3 commercial snow hole expeditions in the Cairngorms Mountains every winter season. He has introduced scores of people to the magic of the winter season. He is also an expert at the skill of building a snow hole for a drip free night out in the mountains. To see what snowholing expedition experience is like for the customer check out our video on YouTube:

 

Ambient Temperature

Seasonal temperatures on the high hills in Scotland are never as low as those in the valleys. You need to take this into consideration when planning to snowhole. Here in Boat of Garten we get temperatures of around -20oC. The lowest ever recorded temperature on the summit of Cairngorm is -16.5oC. Cold temperatures in the valley always occur under cold settled conditions. This is when the cold air drains off the mountain. The cold air then pools in the bottom of the valley. This means that in the Cairngorms the temperatures are never as low as in Norway.

snow hole expedition

Enjoying an evening meal in the luxury  palace makes the snowholing expedition unforgettable!

Avoiding roof sag/collapse

In Norway, you need to capture the warm air. Most people learn to build snow caves in Norway. They learn to create features which capture the warm air inside the shelter. In Scotland, however, you are operating much close to the melting temperature of snow so sloping entrances, sleeping platforms and cold air drains become much less important for the snow hole expedition.

Roof sag is a combination of the temperature rising too much, poor ventilation and not having a thick enough roof or having a large area of unsupported roof. A roof and front wall of approx. 1m thick is vital. If daylight can be seen through either the roof or the wall, they are probably too thin. However, bear in mind that a roof that thick will need an adequately thick & strong front wall.

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An Apex ceiling

Avoid large areas of unsupported roof by keeping your snow hole more like a tunnel, narrow. Aim for a distance of no more than 2 body widths, side by side lengthwise. This means you can create a steep-angled apex ceiling which helps to avoid any drip points and allows you to channel warm air towards ventilation holes.

Avoid avalanches

Many snowhole sites by virtue of their high snow accumulation and steep slopes are prone to avalanches. To be safe, you may need to pick a slope with a more gentle gradient and spend more time digging into the slope. To maintain a 1m thick roof on a 30 degree slope you will have to dig horizontally 2m from the top of the doorway before widening out.

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Ventilation

Make sure there is good ventilation and regularly watch your breath then you will avoid carbon monoxide poisoning. If you see it drifting off to one side, it’s a good indication that ventilation is adequate. Never cook in a snowhole without regularly checking there is adequate ventilation.

It’s a good idea to create ventilation holes in your snow hole because of the Scottish climatic conditions.

Make your snow hole large enough to stand up in so you don’t get back ache from crouching.

Make them big

One potential hazard of digging a small snow hole is that you don’t have enough space to put the snow when you attempt to extricate yourself in the morning. One of the snowholes Andy built in the Cairngorms involved digging out through 1.5m of fresh, drifted snow to get out in the morning.

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Snowholing expedition Tools

Never underestimate how hard the Scottish snow pack could be. At least make sure your snow shovel has a metal scoop and that you are also carrying a snow saw.

Conclusion

Time taken to construct your snow hole is vital. A communal snow hole can take 4 – 5 hours to dig to make sure that you have the best construction possible.

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See more about our snow hole expedition!

It’s daunting trying to decide where to hike in Scotland

fifty plus

Researching where to hike in Scotland is not necessarily an easy task You probably have access to such sites as WalkHighlands. We’ve recently come back from New Zealand. While there we toured the North Island (but not the south, despite frequent recommendations to go there). We didn’t take a campervan (despite recommendations) but we did hike the Tongariro Crossing. However, even though we speak English, we found it much more difficult to get an idea of where to go to hike on the North Island and what to expect when we got there.

What you have to bear in mind when you’re planning your trip, is who is giving you recommendations. Are their priorities are similar to yours or not? Just because someone else thought it was great to isolate themselves in a campervan, doesn’t mean that it will be your thing – nor that it will be within your budget. Equally when someone recommends a hike to you – this doesn’t always mean that it is the best the area has to offer.

family hiking activities.

Hiking in to a secret wild camping spot in Assynt

The first step

What are your priorities?

Is time going to be an issue? Can you afford to be relatively spontaneous? Remember sometimes it’s the experiences you haven’t planned which end up being some of the most memorable parts of your trip. For example, before we went to New Zealand we knew we would spend most of our time on the North Island. We knew we’d be spending the first week in Taranaki, visiting family. We thought we’d like to go on through Taupo, Rotorua and the Coromandel peninsula including the Tongariro Crossing along the way.

In the end, we only passed through Rotorua and diverted to Lake Waikaremoana. This is one of the North Island’s few “Great Walks” (as designated by the Department of Conservation). The walk was stunning and not popular at all. Around 90% of visitors are Kiwis. We loved the whole experience because it was remote. The few people we met were extremely friendly, the views were amazing and we were surrounded by nature. We saw more wildlife on this hike than on all the others put together.

Next consider …

Are you using images on social media to influence your choice?

The problem with using social media to help you decide where to go is that 1000s of other people are seeing the same images. When you get there you might be disappointed when the reality doesn’t match up with the (probably) enhanced image you’ve seen. You will also probably find that the place is much more popular than you anticipated. If you, as a first time visitor to the area, have found information about this place, and seen it more than once, the likelihood is that many other travellers have too.

When making your choice of where to hike in Scotland, bear in mind that you are likely to meet many other people on the shorter hikes on Skye, but many of the other Hebridean islands will be just as beautiful and much less crowded (except during HebFest).

If you choice where to hike in Scotland includes the West Highland Way, this is the most popular long distance hike in Scotland – try to go off season if you can. It will be much less crowded in October than July. NB High season on the West Highland Way also co-incides with high season for midges.

midges in scotland

How to mitigate the effects of “over-tourism”?

Speak to local people about alternative options. Ask experts for advice or take a knowledgeable, local guide. Most hiking guides will avoid popular hotspots. They endeavour to take you to places you wouldn’t otherwise reach.

images of the Hebrides

Exploring the hills of Harris. Watch out though there are few if any way marked paths which might come as a shock to some of our continental visitors.

Is the chance to see wildlife high on your list?

Sometimes the highlight of a hike in Scotland is a chance encounter with reindeer, red deer, red squirrels, ptarmigan, … there’s quite an extensive list. Your chances of seeing wildlife during your hike in Scotland are greatly reduced if you choose a popular route. Wildlife in almost all circumstances will avoid areas where there are a lot of people.

Top tips for wildlife sightings

red deer

All the best when it comes round to your turn to choose a hike in Scotland. There are some great books, but if you can afford it we would highly recommend booking a guide for your first walk. You’d get a much better feel for the country and probably learn some unexpected trivia!

Scotland, famous for … bagpipes and haggis

Is there a link? The shape seems somewhat familiar. When you look at the instrument which is the bag of the bagpipes: Scotland, famous for both of these. You will find the 2 together without trying that hard, particularly if you are in Scotland in January. Burns night is now celebrated the world over and you may have heard of the “Ode to the haggis”. It is traditional for the haggis to be piped into the hall for everyone to feast on it on Burns night. One of his most famous poems is the Ode to the Haggis (if you don’t count the words to Auld Lang Syne).

Don’t fear the haggis! 

Also, don’t believe it’s a real animal.   The infamous Scottish dish is made with the heart, liver, and lungs of a sheep, traditionally ground/minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, spices, and salt.  Boiled in the animal’s stomach.  At first you may balk at the thought but what is a traditional sausage made from?  Or meatloaf?  Haggis is a delicious unusual flavour and you must try before you decide.  A soft texture, a hint of spices, a peppery kick without being ‘hot’ and rustic. 

No records share the original conception, but a similar dish was mentioned in Greece 2,500 years ago.   Your haggis should be accompanied with heaps and tatties, this translates to a Scots yellow turnip and potatoes.  Both served separately on your plate and mashed. 

That’s the authentic Scottish taste, a winter warmer!  I’ve enjoyed multiple times with a whisky cream sauce or red berry sauce and, of course, British household favourite, Heinz ketchup.

We have 2 favourite haggis dinners here at Fraoch Lodge:

  1. Baked haggis with a wild mushroom cream sauce and neep and tattie garlic and juniper-flavoured gratin
  2. Haggis stacks with a whisky cream sauce

 

eilean donan piper

 

The haggis is not connected to the bagpipe

 I’ve heard of a joke but in no way is the bagpipe an animal either!  The bagpipe is a musical instrument that somehow uses reeds, pipes, and a bag full of air to create a sound that is distinctly Scottish.  I say ‘somehow’, I’ve found a photo that shows the internal dynamics, hope this helps your understanding of how the magic happens. 

 The bagpipe is at its most impressive heard and seen at the Edinburgh Royal Tattoo by the military marching bands.  Alternatively, a Highland Games will always have the local bagpipers performing, accompanied with traditional dancers. 

highland Games

Abernethy Highland Games

 The original version of the instrument can be traced back as far as the 2nd century and not in Scotland!  After many centuries and ‘tweaks’, the bagpipe as we know it came into use sometime around the 1700s.  It was said that the penetrating sound worked well above the roar of battle and the drones could be heard up to 10 miles away. 

 The bagpipe is credited to have had a genuine patriotic influence at the time of the Highland uprisings.  Following the defeat at the Battle of Culloden, the London government attempted to rid Scotland of its clan system by passing a Parliamentary Act which made “the carrying of weapons, such as those vicious bagpipes” a penal offence.  Needless to say, the Act didn’t last very long. 

by Rowan Lingard

Scotland, famous for ... bagpipes and haggis

Traditional Scottish kilts are worn by all Scottish massed pipe bands.

What is Scotland famous for? … kilts and Nessie?

What is Scotland famous for? …  Tartan and the Kilt

 Sounds like a great name for a pub, don’t you think?  Tartan was first recorded in Scotland circa 1540, a fabric production and design originating in the Highlands.  The fabric is made of twill woven sheep’s wool.  The communities are known for their weaving; the fabric is made of a distinctive horizontal and vertical stripes and squares pattern known as a “sett”.  The design of these stripes and background colour is also referred to as the tartan.  A Scottish fashion statement. In the modern world you can see it featured prominently in interior designs or on the catwalk of Burberry and Vivienne Westwood.

A short history

Originally, clans people would maximise their animal stock for warmth and food.  The crofters would shear the fleece, spin it into wool fibre and dye it.  The multiple colours came from local plants, mosses and berries.  Don’t attribute special meaning to any of the original colours. This is all a modern-day myth.  One such tale is that red tartans were ‘battle tartans’ designed to mask the colour of bloodshed. 

 The Kilt is a mysterious piece of clothing. It has been around since the 16th century and is essentially a wraparound skirt for a man.  Scottish men have no problem wearing a skirt because, well, they’re Scottish and this is one very important tradition.  The kilt is durable and long-lasting; an untailored 5 metre-long a piece of tartan, worn around the waist usually worn with a sporran – a small bag worn around the waist, over the kilt. Sporran is the Gaelic word for purse.  A Sgian dubh (pronounced skee-an doo), a small dagger, sits in the sock.

NB If you’re expecting all the men in Scotland to be walking the streets in kilts, you’re going to be disappointed. Kilts are expensive pieces of clothing. As such they are generally reserved for special occasions such as weddings (unless you work as a tourist guide!)

eilean donan piper

The development of the kilt

 In the past, the long length of fabric was deliberate to enable the wearer to fashion a 3rd of the fabric over the shoulder.  This upper section could be adjusted depending on the weather and temperature.   The kilt became much more popular in the 21st century after being chosen as uniform by Highland regiments of the British Army. 

 The naming and registering of clan tartans began in April 1815; the Highland Society of London resolved that all the clan chiefs “be respectfully solicited to furnish the Society with as much of the Tartan of his Lordship’s Clan as will serve to Show the Pattern and to Authenticate the Same by Attaching Thereunto a Card bearing the Impression of his Lordship’s Arms.”  Many had no absolute idea of what their tartan might be but were keen to comply and to provide authentic signed and sealed samples.  

Tartan today

 Today tartan and “clan tartan” is an important part of a Scottish clan. Almost all Scottish clans have several tartans attributed to their name. Several clans have “official” tartans.  It is possible for anyone to create a tartan and name it as they wish however the only person with the authority to make a clan’s tartan “official” is the chief.  If you’ve a design of your own, you can commission your own tartan.  You can even submit it to the Scottish Register of Tartans for approval.

If you’re looking for a specific design of tartan, search through the thousands on the Scottish Register of Tartans’ online collection to find your perfect combination and design.  Boat of Garten even has its own tartan. Try Kinloch Anderson, they also have a Heritage Room Museum to see the history of the family over 140 years.  Visit the Lochcarron Weavers Shop in Loch Carron in Wester Ross, Highlands. 

Would you like to see a kilt being made? There is an exhibition in Inverness. If you visit on a weekday, you will see the kiltmakers at work. If you’re there at a weekend, you’ll have to make do with a video presentation, but it is still quite fascinating to visit the exhibition.

Scottish ceremony

Traditional Scottish kilts are worn in a ceremony.

 What is Scotland famous for? The Elusive Nessie?

 The very first recorded appearance of the Loch Ness Monster occurred in 565 AD, when a “water beast” attacked one of St. Columba’s followers in the loch.  Note, it’s not a lake.  Then the not-so-delightful monster went on a holiday.   

It is now one of the best modern-day tourist attractions that you’re not actually guaranteed to see! 

 Our Loch Ness Monster returned and was nicknamed “Nessie”; she first popped up again in 1933 and has been much loved and only a couple of times capture on film.  Photographed with her infamous giraffe-like neck peering out of the water… or was it a stick?  Unfortunately, even though we’ve more cameras and smartphones visit Loch Ness than ever, we’ve no new photos for decades.  Come on, Nessie, we want to see you again.

what is Scotland famous for

Obviously not the real deal – but perhaps the closest we’ll get to the legend herself

 Other things Scotland is famous for:

salmonwhiskycastles – golf – textiles – shellfish – military Tattoo – Edinburgh Festival – music – bagpipes and many more

What’s important about 50?

Fifty plus – a new place from which to analyse life.It’s amazing how from one day to the next your perspective on life can change. All kinds of things can precipitate change:

I don’t know if we’re being manipulated by outside influences but each new decade seems to be a cause to celebrate, but what’s different about a new decade? Why do we see a need to celebrate? Is it related to the decimal system, or is that just a coincidence? Must have been much more difficult when we had an imperial measuring system – we wouldn’t have known where to place the “yardstick”!

fifty plus

What’s different about reaching a new decade?

A new decade seems like something we feel the need to celebrate, apart from when we turn 20 (this is dwarfed by our 18 and 21 celebrations). Starting double figures at 10 seems like a giant hurdle for the wee ones as they’re no longer wee. At 30 and 40 dread fills us at the thought of responsibility – all the things we feel we should be doing “by now”, but when 5o comes up, there’s something different about that one. We all know that we’re unlikely to live until 100. We could get close, but the grand old age of 100 is something most of us are unlikely to see. So when we reach 50, with it comes the realisation that actually your life could well be closer to the end than the beginning. Will 60 be even more scary?

For me, 20 was overshadowed by the looming prospect of being 21 and graduating from university. At 30 I had just finished training properly to be a history teacher. I was preparing to look for a UK based job. Then I changed directions and moved up to the Highlands. My 40th birthday was overshadowed by being 8 months pregnant with the far more alarming prospect of becoming a mother. I suppose then that 50 is the first time I’ve been able to focus on the actual number.

You only have to do a quick google search on turning 50, to find out that we’re not unique in pondering the significance.

Why 50 is so different from any other decade.

Why we should celebrate being 50 – the quintastics

The good, the bad and the ugly of turning 50

Our “middlelife” solution – fifty plus …

This time around we’re not planning to up sticks and more somewhere different. We’re not planning to change career directions and we’re definitely not planning to add to the human family. But we need something to focus on so: 50@50. A new challenge to fill up already full lives.

Somehow along with all our regular commitments and trips, we need to find the time to conquer 50 new Munros summits. (Andy will do all of them and Gregor and I will do as many as we can fit in outside of school commitments.)

Our Munro commitments already include: winter munros and Glencoe winter munros and 4000er trips.

By the time we’re 51 we should be a lot fitter. We’ll also have had a great deal of quality family time tramping the hills. What more could we wish for?

fifty plus

Proud as punch!

How many famous Scots could you name? Do you know, the longer I live in Scotland, the more prominent Scottish people I am aware of and the more often I hear Scottish voices in the media and the arts. Are there a disproportionate number of talented Scots? Or are they just more vocal? Now with so many Scottish voices in the media, online etc surely we can persuade one of them to join us in the hills. Who would you suggest? Who fancies a snowhole?

Our 20th anniversary approaches this year (2018) – perhaps we could persuade a famous face to join us in our celebrations though I think maybe we’d be aiming a wee bit too high if we tried to tempt one of these people to join us. You never know though – nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Famous Scots – in film

DAVID TENNANT

This Bathgate boy became the 10th and best loved Doctor Who actor; a national treasure.  He received such high acclaim for his Richard II with the RSC that he’s repeated his performance multiple times.  Not forgetting Broadchurch, if you’ve not seen or heard about this UK TV series then you must have been living in a cave!

famous Scots

KAREN GILLAN

Almost unrecognisable in her most Hollywood of roles in Guardians of the Galaxy.  Karen first came to our attention as Doctor Who companion, Amy Pond.  Watch out for more, am sure she’ll be on the small and big screens for a long time to come.

EWAN MCGREGOR

Best known for his roles as Mark Renton in the 1996 film Trainspotting, the young Obi-Wan Kenobi in the Star Wars prequel trilogy and as the young Camerlengo Patrick McKenna in an adaptation of Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons.  Whilst made a good decade or more ago, I’d highly recommend you watch him in two TV series’ – the Long Way Round and the Long Way Down.

Ewan’s also making quite a name for himself as a voice in nature programmes.

JAMES MCAVOY

Star of stage and screen, James first came to public attention in the hit Brit show, Shameless. He gained rave reviews for his role in The Last King of Scotland in 2006 and of course, for all your X–men franchise fans, he was a young Charles Xavier. Don’t miss his character’s 23 different personalities in the 2016 film Split.

Famous Scots – in sport

KATHERINE GRANGER

Sharing the record for being Britain’s most decorated female Olympian, Glasgow-born Katherine is now championing the charity International Inspiration which promotes access to sport and physical exercise for lower income families around the world.  2017 was a busy year; appointed chair of UK Sport and awarded a damehood for services to sport and charity.

 ANDY MURRAY

Not surly at all, now we know he’s just ‘dry’.  Born in Glasgow, Andy has won three Grand Slam titles and two Olympic singles gold medals. Former Wimbledon champion adopted by the British Isles as an undoubted sporting icon.  Andy is the UK’s most successful player in the Open Era.  Not forgetting mum Judy Murray is a proud high achieving Scot too!

famous Scots

CHRIS HOY

Multiple world track cycle champion and Olympic Games gold medal winner. Born in Edinburgh, Hoy is Scotland’s most successful Olympian; the first Brit to win three gold medals in a single Olympic Games since 1908; and the most successful Olympic male cyclist of all time. Not bad, not bad at all!

famous Scots

Famous sports personalities from Strathspey

We’re supposed to have more Olympians per head of population than anywhere else in the UK. I suppose this can be attributed to having skiing opportunities on the doorstep as the majority of our semi-famous sports personalities participate in the winter olympics.

CRAIG MACLEAN – Craig is Grantown on Spey’s olympic gold meal winner. He is one of the very few Olympians who has competed in both the Olympics and the para-Olympics. Craig was forced to retire from cycling at the peak of his career with undiagnosed coeliac’s disease. He has since gone on to show a commitment to the sport above and beyond what most of us would consider by enabling

ALAIN BAXTER – there was a great deal of controversy locally when Alain Baxter was stripped of his Olympic medal, but even though he had a lot of support he never had his medal reinstated. Such a shame when there have been a significantly less British medals in the winter Olympics. How much support do our skiers receive now?

 

EILIDH DOYLE

A true ambassador for athletics.  A Scottish record holder, silver medal winner at the Commonwealth and European champion.  I’m sure Eilidh is here to stay; we wish her the best for the 2018 European Athletics Championships in Berlin in August!

 

MHAIRI BLACK

Mhairi became the youngest MP in Britain for 350 after winning the Paisley seat at 20-years-old.  She has promised to make waves through the Commons by ensuring the voices of Scotland are heard, and famously called Westminster ‘the old boys club’. 

 

 Not to mention Ken Bruce (radio 2 DJ), Sean Connery (actor, James Bond) and Sam Heughan (actor – Outlander) nor all the chefs who’ve risen to prominence.

 

For details of historical famous Scots try the VisitScotland site where they also have an eBook about famous Scots with a more comprehensive listing than we have made.

 

 

Rowan Lingard is a volunteer here at Fraoch Lodge in the Cairngorms National Park. She joined us through the Workaway scheme and is helping out through July 2018 – harvesting raspberries and mangetout peas, weeding the garden, tidying up in the house, clearing up behind the dinner chaos and generally making our life a little bit less fraught. Here’s a wee potted history of how Rowan came to be working with us:

Rowan is an ex-director in an events planning business taking time away from the London rat race. She now has her own digital services business www.rowanvpaservices.wordpress.com however, she is trying to develop a business teaching English as a foreign language.

These are Rowan’s impressions of the Cairngorms National Park, which seems to be much undervalued by a huge number of visitors to Scotland and definitely doesn’t rank as highly as Skye on most people’s radar.

Everywhere you turn is a photo opportunity in the Cairngorms National Park

Cairngorms

My first experience of ‘the Cairngorms’ was an Edinburgh to Inverness train journey on a clear blue skied May day on my way to Loch Ness.  My previous trips to Scotland had only taken me as far north as Falkirk, Queensferry and the beautiful Forth Bridge – yes, a bridge can be beautiful.  These stunning majestic mountains of the Cairngorm Region come into view after leaving Pitlochry with Ben Vrachie to the right, leading on to the Pass of Drumochter (Scottish Gaelic: Bealach Druim Uachdair) which is noted to be the highest point on the UK mainline rail network at 452 metres.  The hillside incline takes a sharper approach.  The mass of land becomes obvious.  Me and my train suddenly feel very small.
 
I feel like there is a magic and a mystery of how these ‘hills’ were formed. Calling the Cairngorm Region a number of hills is one of hell of an understatement. The landscape just keeps going. The size has the same awe inspiring quality to when I first saw the Grand Canyon and the one same question – how?

How old are the Cairngorms? A completely different question from how old is the Cairngorms National Park.

Of course, I revert to Google. Research has proven that these mountains were/are some of the oldest in the world. Dating as far back as 400 million years ago, it is believed they were part of an enormous range higher (and much older) than the Alps stretching from North American to Norway.  Today, the best viewing point of the ancient landscape is the high Cairn Gorm plateau.

Over the last 2 million years, it is reported that Scotland has experienced up to 18 distinct Ice Ages. In the National Park the signs of ice age action are steep glens and corries. Now a translation for the non-local: Glens are deep and narrow valleys, and corries relate to the Scottish Gaelic word for pot or cauldron so a bowl-shape within the rock formation. Found throughout the range, at the peak of a mountain or in a valley; frequently resulting in a cute little lake from melted snow or ice. Ah hands up, don’t shoot me, sorry I’m in English-woman in Scotland. I meant cute lochan not lake.
 
On this first occasion I didn’t get off the train till Inverness, sailed straight through just gazing out the train window absorbing the ever changing scenery.  I finally returned to the area in July.  I am volunteering at the friendly and homely 5* hostel Fraoch Lodge with my hosts Rebecca, Andy and Gregor in Boat of Garten.  
Resident in the Cairngorms National Park

Fraoch Lodge basking in the sunshine of the cairngorms national park

Exploring the Cairngorms

On my first full day off, I knew I had to go up!  The quickest way is by the highest of all railways in Britain; the funicular mountain railway.  The funicular operates at 1097 metres above sea level on Britain’s 6th highest mountain – Cairn Gorm.  If you didn’t already know, this Scottish Gaelic name of An Càrn Gorm translates to ‘Blue or Green Hill’.  As expected the flora had changed considerably since May.  A myriad of greens, greys, browns and purples.  Land covered in multiple grasses, moss, heather, bracken and trees.  We’ve had a surprisingly hot summer but in the Cairngorms the old adage of ‘4 seasons in one day’ can apply.  My day was a little moist.  No real rain but misty tops of hills certainly added atmosphere to this tranquil wilderness.  This combination of factors make for one hell of a dramatic landscape.
walking in the Highlands

Posing amid the grandeur of the Cairngorms scenery

 
I’ve read the land owners and estate managers make great efforts to balance tourism and conservation of this natural heritage.  It astounds me that people settled here several millennia ago; I can only imagine the hard work it must have been just to survive.  No ‘popping to the shops’ over this terrain back then.  Walking through this rugged region is the best way to immerse yourself.  To surround yourself.  To connect to the past.  No camera can truly capture the breadth and depth of the panorama.  The eye can absorb the wonder of each hill and peak, of each colour and change in the landscape.  Whilst every where you turn is an unforgettable photo opportunity to share with friends, family and social media.  The Cairngorm Region is truly spectacular.  Tell them nothing beats seeing this in person.

Family adventure vacations: A truly wild & natural adventure

Family adventure vacations mean different things to different families. Our definition is possibly a wee bit on the wild side for some people – but some of our friends have adventures even more out on the wild side than ours. At least if some one else arranges your adventure for you, you have some peace of mind in knowing that they have checked out some of the potential hazards for you. They have probably minimised the risks so you can relax and enjoy the vacation.

Imagine living on the 69th floor of a skyscrapper – what do you think your ideal vacation would be?
A family from Hong Kong contacted us about our Walking, Whisky and Wildlife itinerary. They were looking for something authentic and unique. From there we developed a tailor-made itinerary for them to take account of their 6 year old son and the fact that in Hong Kong they have few if any opportunities to hike. They also wanted to see a wee bit of the Highlands, sample whisky, visit Loch Ness and dip under the surface of a typical touring itinerary.
We put together the following itinerary for them. How much would you have included in your tour? How much did you know about before reading on?
 
  • family adventure vacations
    Enjoying the summit on our first mountain climb in Scotland

Family adventure vacations: in the Cairngorms

Day of arrival: 

Arrival was out of our control and we kept the possibility of activities as free as possible. As it turned out the train from Edinburgh was delayed and no one had lunch before 4pm. There was plenty of time to explore the village and keep an uneducated eye out for wildlife. The kids had a lovely time discovering the trampoline in out garden and the hides/shelters which seem to decorate the entire forest here.

family walk Photo caption: Taken on a different day with different children, but you get the idea. Dens in the wood had a universal appeal.

Family adventure vacations: Day 1  

Short walk at Loch an Eilean followed by a transfer to Ruthven Barracks and Highland Folk Museum. Tour of Folk Museum.

 Our definition of a short walk was a bit of a shock for the uninitiated city dwellers as we didn’t just follow the dog walking, tourist route around the loch, but took everyone up to a wee viewpoint nearby and picked our first wild berries.
After the walk, we transferred the group over to the Highland Folk Museum where the kids had a great time going back in time to a strict classroom. The adults also remembered some of the games from their childhoods. It was a win/win situation all round.
family adventure vacations

Adventuring we will go – up hill, down dale and thru heather to the berries.

Family adventure vacations Day 2: 

Visit to Highland Wildlife Park to see the polar bears and Amur tigers, & sheepdog demonstrations

There’s a wildlife focus to our activities today. We’ll take a landrover safari of the wildlife park and visit all the animals. All the animals are cold climate dwellers. Many live in the Highlands today. There are currently new wildlife kittens and a young polar bear among others.
The kids had a great time seeing all the cold climate animals. I’m not sure what their favourites were but they all loved the sheepdog demonstrations which followed and remembered an awful lot of the information the farmer told them. I think it was particularly because they got to handle the puppies at the end.
family adventure vacations

Meeting the puppies after the sheepdog demonstrations here in the Cairngorms National Park

Family adventure vacations Day 3: 

Visit to Speyside Cooperage, Tomatin Distillery and the Whisky Castle

This was a day mainly for the adults as learning all about the making and drinking of whisky didn’t exactly thrill the kids but their day was made by an ice cream stop an a visit to the adventure play park in Tomintoul. For a full whisky explanation read up on our blog about how to choose a special whisky which you won’t find at home. We’ve also talked about all kinds of whisky related products.

family adventure vacations

Trying out the obstacles in the adventure play park at Tomintoul which entertains the kids while the whisky tasting goes on at the Whisky Castle.

Family adventure vacations Day 4: 

Bag a Munro – hike up Cairngorm

Climb your first mountain in the Highlands and enjoy stunning views across the whole valley.
This was a surprising highlight for the families. They loved hiking up to the summit of Cairngorm and reaching a snow patch. They played there to their hearts content and were perfectly content despite completely sodden footwear. The snow factor was a definite winner.
 
 

Family adventure vacations Day 5: 

Loch Ness

We’ll visit Culloden battlefield, the Loch Ness exhibition and if we have time Urquhart castle for a full quota of history today. See if you can spot the world famous monster. We’ll also fit in a small walk to stretch our legs and find a quiet picnic spot.
We made a wee bit of a different tour of Loch Ness this time and had lunch at the Dores Inn and did a wee bit of a walk. One of our families decided on alternative activities and rode the train on the Strathspey Steam Railway instead of a visit to Loch Ness. They were convinced that they wouldn’t see the monster!
Another alternative option for a Loch Ness visit with an older party is to park at Invermoriston, take the bus to Fort Augustus and walk the high route of the Great Glen Way back to Invermoriston for great views over Loch Ness and few if any crowds.
We also highly recommend a visit to Loch Ness Clayworks which is on the Great Glen Way but also at the foot of a wee hillwalk right by the side of Loch Ness – a fantastic alternative way to explore the area as lochside can be so busy it will be extremely difficult to get parked, particularly at the castle:
TOP TIP: walk to Urquhart castle from Drumnadrochit.

Day of depature: 

After breakfast we’ll run you through to Aviemore. We’ll be sorry to see you go but hope you’ll be back again before too long.
If you’re interested in a tailor made adventure vacation here in the Highlands of Scotland please don’t hesitate to contact us. We don’t really have a lot of availability in 2018 but if you’re thinking about coming over to Scotland in 2019, please get in touch as soon as you can as we’d hate to disappoint and holiday dates get booked up really quickly.

Family walks in the Cairngorms

In no particular order we’ve listed 10 of our favourite family walks in the Cairngorms. We’ve concentrated on the area we know best around the northern side of the park, but we do also know of some excellent walks on the south side of the park which we’ll mention in passing with reference to more detailed information at the end of the blog.

We’ve concentrated on walks which you can do with younger children as once your kids reach a certain age, they’re capable of achieving just as much on a day hike as any other adult.

Hiking in the Cairngorms with a family

Ascending Meall a’Bhucaille with 2 x 7 year olds and 1 x 4 year old.

The walks

1. Loch an Eilean

Of the family walks available in the Cairngorms, this is one of the most popular, also frequented by some of the minibus tour companies like Rabbies.

The walk takes about 2 hours or 4.5 miles

It is a lovely walk to do. You don’t have to do the whole walk but the path is suitable for push chairs, particularly those with 3 wheels or larger wheel sizes.

The ruined castle on the island in the loch lends the situation a romantic aura. The area has featured in Outlander and the new Netflix extravaganza about King Arthur.

The optional extension around the neighbouring loch, is almost deserted. The path is wide and mostly through lovely open Caledonian pines. Even on a wet day, it is picturesque.

In summer, you can snack your way round on the wild bilberries which line the path in places.

Map of the route, courtesy of Walk Highlands.

family walks in the Highlands

One of the most popular short walks in the northern Cairngorms. (Bilberries are the summer highlight.)

2. Green Lochan (or on to Ryvoan Bothy)

An easy walk to fit into a bigger day of activities. Going up to the Green Lochan and back to your car will only take about 1 hour.

1.2 miles: 26 mins (one way)

Start at Glenmore Lodge or the Forestry Commission Visitor Information Centre in Glenmore. Parking at the end of the road by Glenmore Lodge is limited and on a fine day you may find that there is no space there. If you are parked at the end of the road, near the visitor information centre, you will end the walk at the Cobbs cafe. A cake break here makes a fine reward at the end of the day.

The path is wide and easy to find up to the Green Lochan. It starts from the road end and continues straight up to the Green Lochan. Allow time to stop at the lochan take in the views and maybe even dabble your toes in the water. There’s a great spot for photos too.

If you want a longer route

If this is not enough of a walk for you and your family the route continues on to Ryvoan Bothy. The Bothy is a basic shelter, like a refuge. It is free to use and does not have a warden. The main thing to remember is that you should not leave anything at the bothy which wasn’t there when you arrived. You can spend the night at Ryvoan Bothy, but be prepared for some competition for the “bed” space. There is a small stove in the bothy, so providing you have fuel, you should be warm enough.

Here’s a link to the map of Walk Highland’s version of this walk which can also be done as a there and back route from your car parked outside Glenmore Lodge for a shorter route.

family walks for all ages.

Perfect spot to rest up after a wee walk. Popular in the middle of the day.

3. Loch Mallachie & RSPB Loch Garten

This is a lovely walk at any time of year in almost any weather conditions. The majority of the walk is through mature Caledonian pine forest which bears no resemblance whatsoever to commercial forestry. The trees are not all straight nor are they planted in rows. The undergrowth is lush and often filled with treasures like wild blueberries, cowberries or mushrooms. You could see a red squirrel, roe deer, crested tits, ospreys etc

At Loch Garten you have the option of visiting the Osprey Hide and hearing the ongoing saga of the Osprey centre (April to August only).

Including Loch Mallachie on your circuit is a must. It is a beautiful spot and really quite peaceful. Sunrise is glorious here if you’re an early riser.

2 – 3 hours: 9km, plus walk through Boat of Garten to the car park if you are starting from Fraoch Lodge

Map courtesy of Walk Highlands

family walks in the Cairngorms

The peaceful scenery of Loch Mallachie, near Boat of Garten

4. Viewpoint walk, Grantown on Spey

This is a short way-marked circular route of 5km.

You’ll start either from the centre of Grantown, or from the caravan park (though parking is limited here). The route starts on a tarmaced track leading off left past the caravan park. You’ll then pick up signs for the Dava Way and the viewpoint walk to the right. Follow the track up the hill along the side of the stream. You’ll pass a couple of points where you can admire the view over Grantown to the Cromdale hills before reaching the ultimate viewpoint marker, atop a small rocky outcrop. Here you’ll find a viewpoint marker indicating all the mountains etc you can see.

Continue on from the viewpoint to make the walk a circular route, finishing up along the old railway track which is now part of the Dava Way.

There are opportunities to Geocache along the way if you feel the need to add a bit of interest to the walk.

For a full route description try Walk Highlands

5. River Walk, Nethy Bridge

This is a really short walk suitable for even the youngest members of the family. It follows the river Nethy from the bridge in the centre of Nethybridge up towards the Dell of Abernethy. There are also plenty of opportunities to extend the walk along the local network of paths, the majority of which are waymarked.

You can also pick up a map at the information centre in the village hall right at the start of your walk.

There are alternative routes out to Broomhill station and Castle Roy on the other side of Nethybridge.

Make more of a day out of it

Take the steam train from Boat of Garten to Broomhill. Follow the walking route into Nethybridge and either pick you way to the river where there is a wee beach where you can relax. You can paddle in the shallows too. But watch out, because there are deeper patches in the middle of the river. Don’t try to wade out to the other side.

From here you could also pick up the Speyside way and walk all the way back to Boat of Garten which is no more than 5 miles and probably less. It’s a great walk with plenty of opportunities in the summer to stop and snack on bilberries (wild blueberries).

There are plenty of Geocache possibilities in Nethybridge too to keep the kids focused.

6. Ellan Woods, Carrbridge

Ellan Woods are again filled with Geocache boxes. Even if you don’t travel that far, the kids will have a great time trying to retrieve as many prizes as they can.

Parts of the off-road route 7 cycle path also pass through Carrbridge.

If you’re looking for a longer alternative, we do include a Carrbridge circuit in our self-guided Cairngorm itinerary. You could also take a look at the week long itinerary of self-guided walks: we could adapt this trip for your group.

Another alternative: Sluggan Bridge

Sluggan bridge as a walk on it’s own is suitable for almost anyone to do. It is just a quick stretch of the legs, but can easily be extended and is such as lovely spot that you can easily spend an afternoon there with the kids. Dabble in the water and have a picnic.

7 Craigellachie Nature Reserve

This is a wee favourite of ours. A little jaunt up to a viewpoint above Aviemore, or if you have really wee ones just go to the wee lochans. You’d hardly know you’re right next to the A9.

The walk is about 5km so probably not one for really young ones. Parts of it were a wee bit icy when we did it (admittedly that was March and really only to be expected). Lovely walk which breaks out of the birch forest to provide spectacular views as below. Some steep sections but easily managed by anyone of moderate fitness. Walking poles advised if you are not used to hill walking.

Map from Walk Highlands

family walks (uphill)

Spectacular and unusual views from the viewpoint above Craigellachie Nature Reserve

8. Boat of Garten to Aviemore

Well worth a wee gander across the moor to Aviemore. You follow the route of the Strathspey Railway most of the way to Aviemore as well as the course of the river Spey. This is part of the Speyside Way. It is a well maintained wide path. You’ll be heading towards the Cairngorms so spectacular views of the mountains. The only downside is that there is very little shelter for the majority of the route though the beginning and the end are protected by trees.

Points of interest:

You can come out into Aviemore on the Dalfaber estate, right next to Cairngorm Brewery. Worth a stop? They do brewery tours! Also near here: Kilted Fudge (for the kids to pick up a treat) and Route 7 Cafe.

You can return by steam train to Boat of Garten if you time it right, or alternatively take the public bus service (no. 34) back to the village.

5 to 6 miles, depending on how far into Aviemore you go.

9. Meall a Bhuacaille

We’ve already covered this option in some detail in a previous blog. Do click on the link for full details. This is a very popular family walk. Plenty of treats for the younger kids to encourage them to the top.

10. Ascent of Cairngorm

This is quite a walk for wee kids, but don’t forget if it’s your first attempt and the kids get tired, you usually have the option of taking the funicular train back down (providing you remember your wallet).

Again it is easy to extend this walk if you want or keep it short and just pop in at the Ptarmigan restaurant at the top for snacks and refreshments.

Do not attempt this walk with young kids in the winter months.

From the ski car park to the summit is: just over 4km, 2 – 2.5 hr walking

Route map and description

Remember: there is no shelter or shade on this walk. Cairngorm is sub-arctic tundra. Most of the vegetation is less than knee high. There are trees but they are of the dwarf variety and don’t even reach you knees. You’d have to know what you’re looking at to identify them as trees!

family walks in the Cairngorms

A family day out on the summit of Cairngorm (with diversions to hunt for snow)

For maps and full route descriptions try WalkHighlands

Further reading and suggestions for family walks

For leaflets on the community trails around many of the villages in the Cairngorms click here

Visit Scotland’s suggestions for scenic family walks

Suggestions from the Hilton

Best hikes in the Cairngorms from the Guardian.

https://blog.visitcairngorms.com/six-great-walks-beginners-families/

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