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Andy loves walking in the Scottish mountains in winter. There’s something special about seeing familiar hills transformed by snow, enjoying crisp winter air and looking out across a landscape that can feel completely different from the one you walked through in summer.
But winter walking isn’t simply summer hillwalking with warmer clothes and shorter days. Snow, ice, strong winds and rapidly changing weather bring additional challenges. Routes that are straightforward in summer can become much more demanding, and decisions about where and when to walk become particularly important.
If you enjoy walking in the hills but would rather have someone else take responsibility for planning the route and making decisions in winter conditions, joining a guided walk or winter walking holiday can be a good solution.
So what should you look for in a winter walking guide, and what sort of experience might suit you?

Andy getting excited about snow in the Cairngorms
There are several reasons why people choose to walk with a guide in winter.
Perhaps you are an experienced summer hillwalker who hasn’t yet developed the confidence or skills to tackle Scottish mountains in winter. You might have some winter experience but prefer to leave the planning and navigation to someone with more local knowledge. Or perhaps you simply enjoy sharing the experience with other people rather than heading out on your own.
Winter conditions introduce a number of challenges:
A good winter walking guide brings experience of dealing with these conditions. They will assess the weather, snow conditions and the group’s capabilities before deciding where to go.
Importantly, that may mean changing the original plan. The best winter days aren’t necessarily the ones when you reach the summit you had in mind.
If you are booking a guide to take you into the Scottish mountains in winter, it is worth checking their qualifications and experience.
The Winter Mountain Leader qualification is designed for experienced mountain leaders who want to lead groups in mountainous terrain in UK winter conditions. It covers the skills needed to manage groups, including navigation, snow and avalanche awareness, movement on steep ground and winter decision-making.
Other qualifications include:
The appropriate qualification depends on the type of activity you are booking. For ordinary winter hillwalking, look for a guide qualified and experienced to lead groups in winter mountain conditions.
Qualifications are important, but so is experience. Familiarity with the local mountains, an understanding of changing weather and snow conditions, and the ability to make sensible decisions are all part of good winter guiding.
You can find out more about the different qualifications through Mountain Training.

These are two quite different experiences, although both can help you enjoy winter in the Scottish mountains.
A winter skills course is for people who want to develop their own ability to travel safely in winter conditions. You’ll learn how to use an ice axe and crampons, move efficiently over snow, assess conditions and develop your winter navigation skills.
A two-day course is a useful introduction, while a longer course allows more time to practise and develop your skills.
A guided winter walking holiday is a different proposition. Rather than spending your time learning technical skills, you can concentrate on enjoying the mountains while your guide takes responsibility for choosing appropriate routes and managing the day’s plans.
You will still learn a great deal simply by spending time with an experienced guide and seeing how they approach different conditions.
Neither option is necessarily better than the other. It depends on whether your aim is to become more independent in the winter mountains or simply to enjoy some memorable days walking with an experienced leader.

Can’t beat these views! New Year Winter Walking 2022 – 2023
Not everyone wants the same thing from a winter walking holiday. Some people are keen to tackle Munros and challenging mountain routes, while others would rather enjoy shorter days, perhaps with the occasional summit when conditions allow.
There are also differences in the amount of experience and fitness needed.
At Scot Mountain Holidays, we run several different types of winter walking holiday in the Scottish Highlands.
Our Classic Winter Cairngorms week is based at Fraoch Lodge in Boat of Garten. It offers a varied programme of winter mountain walking in the Cairngorms, with routes chosen according to the prevailing conditions and the group’s interests and abilities.
For those who enjoy being out in the hills but don’t necessarily want a full week of demanding mountain days, Winter Gentle Giants offers a shorter introduction to winter walking, based around the Cairngorms.
Winter Munros
If you have more experience and are keen to tackle some of Scotland’s higher summits, our Winter Munros programme offers a more challenging week in the mountains.
A chance to spend the New Year in the Highlands, enjoying winter walks and the company of a small group.
We also run more specialised winter expeditions for those looking for something different, including snowhole experiences and winter journeys into more remote parts of the Highlands.
The important thing is to choose a holiday that matches your experience and expectations. You don’t need to be an experienced winter mountaineer to enjoy a guided winter walking holiday, but you do need to be comfortable with the physical demands of walking in potentially challenging conditions.

All kinds of natural sculptures appear in the hills during winter
One of the advantages of joining a small guided group is that you get to know the people you are walking with, rather than simply joining a large organised party.
Scot Mountain Holidays is an owner-led business. Andy has spent more than 25 years exploring and guiding in the Scottish Highlands. His knowledge of the mountains and local conditions helps him choose routes that make the most of whatever winter weather brings.
We don’t work to a rigid itinerary where reaching a particular summit is the only measure of success. The weather, snow conditions and the group’s interests all influence where we go.
Some days that might mean heading for a high summit. On others, a lower-level route or a different part of the Highlands will offer a much better day out.
We also keep our groups small. We think this makes a real difference in the mountains, where flexibility and the ability to respond to changing conditions are important.

Perhaps you already have a group of friends or family who enjoy walking together but would like the reassurance of an experienced winter guide.
We can also arrange private guiding for individuals and small groups. This gives you more flexibility over the dates, location and type of walking you want to do.
It can be a particularly good option if you have a specific mountain or area in mind, or if you want to build your winter walking experience with a guide who knows the local hills.

Striding out across the plateau, Cairngorms (New Year Winter Walking 2022 – 2023)
Whether you want to develop your winter skills, tackle some challenging mountain routes or simply enjoy walking in the snow with a knowledgeable guide, there are plenty of ways to experience the Scottish Highlands in winter.
Take a look at our winter walking holidays or get in touch if you’d like to discuss private guiding or which trip might suit you.
We’d be happy to help you find the right way to enjoy the Scottish mountains in winter.
Winter isn’t always the easiest time of year to get out into the Scottish hills. The days are shorter, the weather can be challenging and a walk that was straightforward in summer can become a much more serious undertaking when snow and ice arrive.
But winter also brings some of the most memorable days in the mountains. Frost transforms the landscape, low sunlight picks out the shape of the hills, and on the right day the views seem to stretch for miles. Familiar routes take on a different character, and there’s a particular satisfaction in returning from a day out in the cold to somewhere warm and comfortable.

Winter has always been a huge favourite of Andy’s. Even now, he gets very excited at the prospect of snow – and that’s after nearly 30 years of guiding in the Highlands. Here are some of the reasons he thinks it’s worth getting out into the hills when the temperature drops.
One of the biggest attractions of winter walking is the landscape itself. Snow and frost reveal details that can be less obvious in summer, while the low sun creates long shadows and dramatic contrasts across the hills.
On clear days, the views from the higher Cairngorms can be exceptional. Sometimes an inversion leaves the summits above a blanket of cloud; at other times, distant mountains stand out against a crisp blue sky. Sunrise and sunset can bring extraordinary colours, too.
Of course, winter doesn’t guarantee clear skies. Mist, cloud and snowfall are all part of the season, and visibility can change quickly. But when the conditions come together, the results can be spectacular.

Can’t beat these views! New Year Winter Walking 2022 – 2023
Walking in winter asks more of you than following a familiar summer route. Snow can make progress slower, icy slopes require care, and navigation becomes particularly important when the paths disappear beneath a covering of white.
That added challenge is part of the attraction for many experienced hillwalkers. It encourages you to develop your judgement, pay closer attention to the landscape and think carefully about each stage of the day.
You don’t necessarily need to aim for the highest summit, either. A good winter walk is one that suits the conditions and the people taking part. Sometimes a lower route offers the most rewarding day; on other occasions, settled weather and good snow conditions may allow a more ambitious outing.

It’s easy to become less active when the days shorten and the weather turns cold. Having a walking trip planned gives you a reason to keep getting outside rather than waiting for spring.
A full day in the hills can be physically demanding, particularly when you’re walking through snow or over rough ground. Regular walking helps maintain fitness and stamina, while a week of walking can provide a welcome opportunity to build on the exercise you manage in everyday life.
There’s no need to make it about step counts or calories. For most of us, the better motivation is having somewhere interesting to go, a route to explore and a good reason to put on our boots.

Always a memorable sight – the Cairngorm Reindeer herd
Winter walking brings skills into sharper focus. Understanding mountain weather, navigating in poor visibility, recognising icy terrain and knowing when to change your plans are all important parts of travelling safely in the hills.
If you’ve mostly walked in summer, the prospect of winter conditions can feel daunting. A winter skills course is a way to learn the techniques and decision-making involved, with instruction and practice in suitable conditions.
For those who want to concentrate on the walking itself, going out with an experienced local guide can also be a good way to discover winter mountain terrain. A guide can help choose an appropriate route, assess the conditions and adapt the plan as the day develops.
Winter mountains deserve respect, and the right skills and preparation make a real difference.

Self-arresting on a winter skills course in the Cairngorms
There’s something satisfying about sharing a day in the hills when everyone has had to make a little extra effort. You might be following a line across a snowy plateau, stopping to admire a view or finding shelter for a short break out of the wind.
Walking gives people time to talk. Conversations wander from the mountains to family, work, travel and all sorts of other subjects. By the end of a trip, a group has shared far more than a collection of photographs and summit names.
The camaraderie isn’t unique to winter, of course. But a memorable day in challenging conditions can give people a particular sense of achievement and a story to tell afterwards.
If you look closely at the picture below, you’ll see a group of people who have been coming on trips with us for over 10 years – many of them come annually or bi-annuallly to be part of the same group. See Mike below – so integrated he even has the same jacket as Andy (in the centre of the picture).

For anyone who enjoys being outdoors, snow can bring out a sense of playfulness. Crunching across frozen ground, watching spindrift blow across a ridge or learning how to move confidently with crampons can make the mountains feel like a completely different environment.
On a winter skills course, activities such as practising ice-axe techniques and learning how to move on snow have a serious purpose: they help develop the skills needed for winter travel. But there’s plenty of satisfaction in learning something new, practising it and seeing your confidence grow.
And there’s no denying the simple pleasure of being out in a snowy landscape on a bright winter’s day.
Winter is an opportunity to see familiar places from another perspective. The Cairngorms can feel vast and remote under snow, while woodland and lower-level routes offer their own rewards when the high ground is less inviting.
You don’t need a perfect summit day to enjoy being outside. A walk through frost-covered woodland, a view across a frozen-looking corrie or the changing colours of the sky at the end of the afternoon can all make a day memorable.
The key is being prepared to adapt. Winter walking isn’t about going out regardless of the conditions; it’s about finding the right experience for the day.

If you already enjoy hillwalking, winter can open up a whole new dimension of the activity. If you’re newer to the hills, there are ways to build experience gradually, starting with appropriate routes and learning from qualified instructors or guides.
The important thing is to be realistic about your experience, equipment and the conditions. Winter mountain walking can involve serious hazards, including ice, poor visibility, strong winds and rapidly changing weather. Some days, the right decision is to choose a different route or stay off the high ground altogether.
At Scot Mountain Holidays, our winter walking programme gives us the opportunity to explore the mountains with local knowledge and a flexible approach to route choice. We plan around the conditions rather than treating a summit as an obligation.
If you’re curious about winter walking in the Cairngorms, take a look at our winter walking holidays. If you’d prefer to develop your own winter mountain skills, you can also find out about our winter skills courses.
Winter won’t always deliver blue skies and snow-covered summits. But it offers a different way to experience the Scottish mountains, and some days will stay with you long after the snow has melted.
Every year there are reports of people getting lost in the snow and ice of winter. Mountain rescue callouts are predominantly about navigation errors. To make winter a safer place, it is a good idea to book a guide to lead or alternatively join a group heading out into the hills. Some groups are organised by companies on commercial trips, others are groups of friends or clubs. Nonetheless there is safety in numbers.
Every year there are winter wilderness expeditions running under the guidance of Andy Bateman of Scot Mountain Holidays in the Cairngorms and Glen Affric. There’s also usually a trip to Knoydart, home to Britain’s most remote pub; however there is a major reforestation project going on there this year which makes it less attractive to visit and all the accommodation will be taken by the forestry workers.
Life will be reduced to basics during the expedition and the only concerns will be: eat – sleep – hike (repeat). The perfect way to clear the mind and return feeling completely refreshed after only a few short days.
This is a rare opportunity to experience one of the remotest parts of the Cairngorms National Park at a time when the mountains are probably at their most glorious. The High Cairngorms are renowned for their wintry conditions yet at this time very few folk dare to do multi-day trips

Celia enjoying her second (or third) winter expedition with Scot Mountain Holiadays
Highlights: winter skills, Monadh Mhor (Munro), Devil’s Point (Munro) Carn a’ Mhaim (Munro), Derry Cairngorm (Munro), Beinn a’ Chaorainn (Munro)
Price: £ on application
Email: SCO@scotmountainholidays.com for full information about this trip.
MINIMUM GROUP SIZE: 3 PEOPLE – Private dates available. Please enquire.
This is Scotland’s ultimate winter mountain journey. The high “plateau” route takes in Britain’s 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th highest peaks on a journey that circumnavigates Scotland’s finest and best known mountain pass, the Lairig Ghru.

Check out the potential avalanche sites on the head wall. You can see how the corrie came to be made
Highlights: winter skills, Cairngorm (6th Highest Munro), Ben Macdui (2nd Highest Munro), Braeriach (3rd Highest Munro), Cairn Toul (4th Highest Munro), Sgor an Lochain Uaine (Munro)
Price: £ on application
Email: CWO@scotmountainholidays.com for full information about this trip
MINIMUM GROUP SIZE: 3 PEOPLE – Private dates available. Please enquire.
Imagine the soft orange light of a winters dawn gleaming down from the snowy celestial heights. Surrounded by snowy peaks and cradling a mug of tea in the crisp air, indeed a stunning winter’s day beckons.
Highlights: winter skills, Mullach Fraoch – choire (Munro), Mam Sodhail (Munro), Carn Eighe (Munro), An Socach (Munro), Carn a’Choire Ghairbh (Munro)

Spotting deer in Glen Affric while on winter expedition in Scotland
Price: £ on application
Email: Shangri-La@scotmountainholidays.com for full information about this trip
MINIMUM GROUP SIZE: 3 PEOPLE – Private dates available. Please enquire.
Or for something slightly different
“Porridge with whisky at 9am whilst warm & dry in my sleeping bag has never tasted better!” Ric Taylor,Bristol.”
Have you ever dreamt of taking a short walk amongst a moonlit snowy wonderland. Amazingly no need for a torch! Imagine reflected flickering candle light giving way to the soft light of a winters dawn as you emerge from you snowy abode. Not a soul about! We’ll have a vast pristine winter wonderland all to ourselves. It’s a remarkable experience.
Highlights: winter skills on Cairngorm, overnight expedition to sleep in a snow cave, creation of said snow cave

how to build a snowhole in Scotland
All digging and cooking equipment supplied by your hosts, Scot Mountain Holidays.
Check full details on the website
Highlights:
Accommodation: Barrisdale Stable (if available) or heated Tentipi
MINIMUM GROUP SIZE: 3 PEOPLE – Private dates available. Please enquire.
Highlights:
Accommodation: Barrisdale Stable (if available) or heated Tentipi
MINIMUM GROUP SIZE: 3 PEOPLE – Private dates available. Please enquire.
January 2018 has been a very busy month which Andy is currently rounding off with (another) snowhole trip into the gale-bound Cairngorms with a team from the BBC Travel Show. Nerves were displayed by the newbies presenting the programme. I think they were daunted by the Triathlon enthusiasts who’d been drafted in to help dig.
We welcomed in 2018 in the company of our select winter walkers. The group all brought in the New Year with a great deal of good-humoured and crowded dancing in the street in Grantown on Spey. Dancing was followed by a magnificent firework display. Great fun for everyone which topped off some fabulous snowy walks.
Andy was even able to get out the tentipi and show off it’s capabilities over a cosy whisky in the evening. His market research (which might be skewed by the whisky and warmth inside the tentipi) shows some demand for his pony wilderness glamping proposals.
5 younger enthusiasts joined us on January 1st for the first winter skills and navigation course of 2018. We think the photos tell most of the story. Great fun and quantities of cake kept everyone happy throughout.
Practising cramponing techniques in the Cairngorms, Scotland. There’s nothing more fun than legitimate play in the snow.
Tumbling down the mountain, alternatively known as ice axe arrest on a 5 day winter skills course with Scot Mountain Holidays
Back for some more trailbreaking through the snow-decked Cairngorms. Our blog advice on how to keep your hands warm and how to keep your phone going in the cold were of great help this week.
Atop Bynack Mor deep in the heart of the Cairngorms National park. Not everyone goes on to see these magnificent “barns”. Quite a feat of climbing to get to the top, especially after the walk in!
The view you’d be rewarded with for the challenge of pitting yourself against potentially the worst conditions nature can throw at you. When you come out on top, you can feel the adrenaline.
Walking through the snow – January 2018. Winter walking is a completely different experience and a different challenge. If you haven’t tried it, maybe this is your time.
Cairngorms (January 2018) Spectacular views are the reward for challenging yourself to a winter extravaganza.
Getting a workout through the snow in the glorious outdoors. Plenty of fresh air and stunning views.
Glorious winter walking on the Classic Winter Cairngorms week with Scot Mountain Holidays this January (2018)
Lucky or what? The views of the Classic Winter Cairngorms week were stunning at times as this shot shows.Lorna chose to encourage her friends and family to join her on a Snow Hole Expedition with Andy to celebrate her 50th birthday. We felt honoured. Lorna herself must have enjoyed the experience because she’s back right now helping the BBC to dig in tonight. Let’s hope they get to see the blue moon despite the snow showers.
Heading out into the Cairngorms fully prepared for a night out on a Snow Hole Expedition with Andy Bateman
Lorna is enjoying the break through moment. Now they can see that their overnight residence is a real possibility
If you’d like to join us for a winter walking extravaganza or to learn new winter skills, there’s still plenty of time. Winter in the Highlands lasts well into March and sometimes even April.
Plenty of choice of walking holiday or skills course
What a week of Guided winter walking in Scotland – almost 4 seasons in one week! From full whiteout blizzard to stunning views for miles from the summit of Braeriach, enhanced by a broken spectre with 2 silhouettes in the middle.
From conditions like this:
To glorious views like this:
Stunning views to compensate for the lack of snow cover in the Cairngorms (courtesy of Claire Grogan)
The weekend at the beginning of the trip offered the worst of the weather, but unfortunately if you have to get back to work … maybe next time those who couldn’t stay on will be treated to views similar to those from Braeriach at the end of the week.
“Thank you again for a very enjoyable week. Andy’s knowledge of the mountains and of the geology, flora and fauna, together with the welcoming and homely atmosphere and Rebecca’s cooking makes for a great combination”
These are just a selection of some of the points which have made the week so memorable and will hopefully serve as talking points when everyone gets home.
Group:
included
– a diverse group of individuals (including one couple) united by a common interest.
We saw a vole and it didn’t just pop out and disappear; it stayed and snuffled around searching for food. We have a really good view of it.
Sightings of ptarmigan became quite common place as the week went on. The first was exciting but by the end of the week, we’d had at least 5 sightings. Ptarmigan sightings were exciting for one of our guests whose young grandson (under 10 years old) is a keen birdwatcher, so it was something he could share with him.
We spotted golden eagle and mountain hare in the white winter plumage.
Many a hiker would love to be treated to a broken spectre. It adds a certain “je ne sais quoi” to the day and provides a talking point. Everyone wanted to see the pics (and it certainly proved popular on our social media.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BPhU-QVhzFg/?taken-by=scotmountainholidays
Panoramic photos courtesy of Claire Grogan
Stunning winter views in the Cairngorms highlighted by a slight wisp of cloud to add character to the picture
Not so wintry in the Cairngorms but still enjoying the company and repartee as the group ascends the ridges in the Cairngorms
Check out our Facebook album for a fuller collection of the photos taken during our trip.
Lentil loaf – a great vegetarian recipe to have up your sleeve for parties/dinners with friends.
Other food: Recipes going live shortly:
Beetroot brownies
Banana and fruit loaf pudding
Grasmere gingerbread
Raspberry and pine nut bars
Tear and share tomato and cheese bread
A great group who enjoyed the variety of walking options during the week and did perhaps feel that they accomplished more in the week than they would have done without Andy’s guidance.

It’s now middle of November and winter in our mountains is knocking at our door. As the Atlantic storms pass our area the arctic air is drawn into their wake. With each passing front, the weather can be extremely changeable. It may be weeks yet before winter conditions are in full nick for full on winter walking, but sudden blizzards on the high tops are now common place – meaning the ill prepared can be easily caught out. Scot Mountain Holidays guide and instructor Andy Bateman takes us through some of the considerations over and above the essentials of ice axe and crampons in transitioning from autumn in winter trekking conditions.
It is prudent to carry a head torch at most times of year, but especially in the case of winter. The days are short and even a minor delay can make the difference between coming off the hill in the daylight and dark. Don’t go without!
In addition, make sure the batteries are fresh so your torch is working at full power. Carry spares too but try to avoid fumbling about to change batteries in a blizzard!
Consider upgrading your head torch to a more powerful model . Remember you may be trying to discern navigational features both in the dark and in the fog.
The stiffness of the winter boot is an integral part of ensuring crampons can be securely attached to your feet. This being said, bunging crampons is not a “fix all” and the winter boot is as much a tool on your foot as the ice axe is in your hand. You need adequate stiffness to kick steps comfortably and efficiently into hard snow. Without it, it will be difficult to execute the technique of front pointing safely.
Proper winter boots are also better insulated. If you’re thinking about buying a boot for the winter go for at least a B2. A B1 boot may be fine for a serious summer glacier trek in the Himalayas, but they don’t come up to the mark when it comes to winter in the Scottish mountains.
Check the state of your soles. It’s those sharp right angled edges that help to prevent slipping and allow you to kick steps.

Which boots to choose for winter?
These are an absolute must and in our damp mountain climate they need to be anti-fog (double lenses). It may be uncomfortable – but not impossible – navigating into driving rain, but don’t underestimate how painful this is once precipitation turns solid. It can be literally impossible to see. Your sight is of vital importance so don’t skimp on the goggles and head torch.

Pack that extra warm layer. The ambient temperature at 1000m rarely drops below -10 degrees C but don’t underestimate how cold it can feel. A weak winter sun, the damp air and often a high wind chill all conspire to make the British mountains one of the worst places for hypothermia. You can chill quickly when you stop moving. A really thick fleece or over layering jacket is ideal. Be cautious about wearing duvets jackets under other garments – they can loose their loft and hence insulation.
Make sure you gloves are warm enough for winter walking … i.e. they must be proper thick gloves. Not only do your hands have a very large surface area compared with their volume but also the body will reduce the circulation to them to conserve the core temperature – no wonder they get cold! So if you do have cold hands don’t just think of putting on warmer gloves, but also an extra layer on your body.
Also remember if you do particularly suffer from cold hands, mitts are better at giving you the option of adding heat pads.
If you’re coming on a winter skills course or winter walking holiday with Scot Mountain Holidays please don’t hesitate to contact Andy if you have any further questions, an expert in optimal gear.
Andy will be publishing further blogs on the subject of preparing for winter over the forthcoming weeks. Keep your eyes open!
You can also take a look at our Winter walking holidays, Winter Skills courses and Full moon Snow-hole Expedition.

In February we ran a snow hole expedition, the second of the year, in the Cairngorms.
The group was small but unusual.
Ian – our most frequent flier on the snow hole. This was his third snow hole trip. Ian first joined us in 2006 to attempt an overnight snow hole in the Cairngorms National park. The weather was against them on that trip and they had to turn back without reaching the snow hole site. The ski area wasn’t open and though the group attempted to ascend the hill they eventually had to turn back after being blown around a wee bit too much. There is video footage from their endeavours which makes for interesting viewing just to see the effect of nature, if nothing else. Ian returned again in 2007 with 90% of his group to try again – successfully
Andy – our oldest client to date on this trip – a celebration of his imminent 70th birthday.
Hui – our first guest from Singapore. A lone female traveller spending a few months in the UK on a sabbatical from her studies.
Read all about their experience in Andy’s words:

Late last year whilst at David Lloyd’s (gym), I said to my friend, Ian Thorpe, an experienced walker and climber, that I fancied carrying out some serious winter walking, but not climbing. Ian replied “Let me take you to the Cairngorms National Park, Scotland.” This was duly arranged by ian and off we set on 21st February at 10am, arriving at Fraoch Lodge in Boat of Garten, in the Cairngorms, at 16.15.
Rebecca, Andy and wee Gregor made us extremely welcome; dinner was baked salmon with a rich and wonderful sauce, followed by home made trifle containing shortbread and blackcurrants, wonderful.
Next morning, along with fellow trekker, Hui, a lady lone traveller from Singapore, we were fitted out with ice axe, crampons & helmets prior to spending our first day on the mountains practising ice axe arrest. This was a daunting experience for some one who has never even worn crampons let alone walked on ice.
Later that day we walked till late on Lurcher’s Crag and the Chalamain Gap, looking towards Corrie an Lochain, before returning to Fraoch Lodge for another wonderful dinner, having first stocked up on copious bottles of red and white wine from the local Tesco.
On Saturday 23rd February after a hearty breakfast at 7.30, we set off for the snow hole day. We arrived at Aviemore ski resort and walked in. At about 2pm we were ready to dig our snow hole. Andrew marked out 2 doorways on the ice covered mountain side. (We were about 3000ft up by now.) These door holes, roughly about 12ft apart, were then dug into using ice saws and snow shoverls. It took 2 hours to create a vertical face, then we had to further excavate in for about 5ft prior to turning inwards to join the 2 ends of the snow hole. This was particularly backbreaking work for Hui, thank God we had clear blue skies and sunshine. After about 4 more hours, the hole was completed. My feet were so cold I could hardly feel them.
Having put all our gear, including cooking utensils inside, Andrew started the evening meal. We had hot tea, followed by carrot and coriander soup, then a buckwheat and chorizo casserole. Dinner commenced about 10.30pm! Ouside the temperature was approx -9oC; inside however was relatively comfortable.

Stunning views from the “window” of your overnight accommodation deep in the heart of the Cairngorms
Next morning we woke up to a complete whiteout. My fear was how do we navigate to the summit of Cairngorm Mountain? Andrew explained that we take a direct compass bearing but because I was finding the walk hard he explained that provided we walked clearly up and around the pudding shaped mountain, we would by definition reach the summit and incidentally GB’s highest automatic weather station. After approx. 600m of ascent we duly found the summit at 1245m.
Roughly 4 hours later, we had descended back to the ski lodge. It was particularly hard going with Hui hanging on the to back of Ian’s rucksack most of the way. We had the pleasure of seeing a Ptarmigan and 2 white hares.
Overall a fabulour experience which I will not be repeating, but one to tick off. Andrew’s knowledge of the terrain, geology, weather conditions, and navigation skills were par excellence.
Having successfully returned to Fraoch Lodge, we were treated once again to an excellent farewell dinner. Many thanks Ian, Andrew and Rebecca for a memorable trip which i will not forget for a long time.
Andrew Palliser
PS My 70th Birthday on March 12th 2013 – what a perferct birthday treat to myself!
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