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Snow-holing has a long and established tradition in Scotland’s winter mountains and in alpine and arctic regions worldwide. Vast amounts of snow still build up in sheltered lee areas on the high, wind-swept Cairngorm Plateau. Many snow-hole sites often hold snow into July, making this a sustainable winter mountaineering activity. However, as Andy Bateman* of Scot Mountain Holidays questions, it’s worth asking whether traditional snow-holing techniques remain appropriate for Scotland’s increasingly mild and variable winter climate. Do we stick with traditional and when it doesn’t work declare snow-holing “dangerous”, or do we prioritize safety and adapt?
Although the Scottish Highlands occasionally make headlines for extreme cold, mountain temperatures never reach true Arctic levels. Recorded lows of below –20°C occur in valley inversions, where cold air pools in glens while summits remain relatively warmer.
For example, Aviemore experiences a wider temperature range than the summit of Cairngorm, whose lowest recorded temperature is only –16.5°C (12 January 1987). By contrast, nearby Nethy Bridge reached an unofficial –31.3°C (10 January 1982)!
At around 1100 m — the typical altitude of many Cairngorm snow-hole sites — winter extremes tend to sit between –8°C and –10°C, with many days around –5°C or warmer. Scotland’s proximity to the North Atlantic Drift keeps conditions comparatively mild, yet still demanding enough to test even experienced snow-holers.
Traditional snow-hole design aims to capture warm air, using raised sleeping platforms, doorways lower than the living area, and cold air drains. Are these features appropriate when winter temperatures in Scotland approach the melting point of the very material providing shelter?
In conditions near 0°C, the focus should be on adequate ventilation to manage internal air temperature and maintain structural stability.
An important point to note is that it takes appreciable heat energy to convert snow at 0 deg C to water at 0 deg C. It means that whilst there may not be a rise in temperature, you may still be “injecting” appreciable heat energy into the snow pack around your snow-hole.
Snow-holing naturally occurs where snow collects deeply — often on steep slopes with the potential for avalanche release. Avalanche risk must therefore be the primary consideration when selecting a site.
If there is any uncertainty about snow-pack stability:
• Avoid slopes steeper than 30 degrees.
• Excavate horizontally from the top of the door at least 1.7 m for slopes of 30 degrees or less before widening the chamber to ensure a minimum 1 m-thick roof.
Scottish snow often becomes extremely hard after repeated cycles of wind, thaw, and refreeze, demanding robust equipment. Ensure you carry:
• A metal-bladed snow shovel – polycarbonate models are largely ineffective in dense, refrozen snow.
• A snow or “carpentry” saw capable of cutting blocks efficiently when snow is too hard to shovel. A number of dedicated snow saws falter when it comes to Scottish snow.
• A 3-metre avalanche probe to confirm adequate horizontal snow depth before excavation.
• A durable ground sheet or tarp for collecting and dragging excavated snow clear of the entrance.
The correct tools greatly improve both efficiency and safety, especially in hardened Scottish snow conditions.
A snow-hole’s roof design is critical to both safety and durability. In Scottish conditions, attention to vault ceiling and load distribution is essential to minimize unsupported snow.
To achieve a stable structure:
• Keep the floor width to no more than two body widths (about 1.2 m) between the inner front and back walls.
• Excavate upward to form a steeply angled vaulted or apex ceiling, which removes large unsupported sections and promotes strength.
This design offers five major benefits:
1. Eliminates triangular sections of unsupported snow.
2. Prevents flat areas that become drip points.
3. Encourages melt water to drain with the snow pack.
4. Provides limited standing height without unnecessary excavation.
5. Directs warm air toward ventilation holes at the apex.
A properly shaped vaulted ceiling is the key to structural longevity. Reducing unsupported ceiling weight matters more than temperature alone. One snow-hole built by Andy Bateman on 25 March remained intact and safe when re-entered on 19 May after a prolonged thaw, with no roof deformation. Similarly, a BBC Travel Show snow-hole I built endured until late June; though its roof was only 30 cm above the floor, it never collapsed. Nearby structures that had become open hollows.
Roof thickness is equally important. When shaping the vault, avoid thinning the roof excessively — thicker is stronger.
• Minimum roof thickness: at least 1 m of snow overhead.
• Light test: blue light will penetrate up to 1m into the snow. If a pale blue glow is visible through the roof, it’s getting too thin.
• Front-wall strength: ensure the wall is no less than 1 m thick at its narrowest point to bear roof loads safely.
In Scottish snow-holing, roof geometry and thickness are the foundations of safety and endurance.
Effective ventilation is vital for safety in any snow-hole. Inadequate airflow when cooking, can lead to dangerous levels of carbon monoxide (CO) — a colourless, odourless gas produced by incomplete combustion.
All pressure stoves operate by first oxidising fuel to CO and then fully converting it to carbon dioxide (CO₂). Flame colour variations indicate this combustion process. When airflow is restricted, the secondary oxidation step fails, increasing CO production.
Simple ventilation test: exhale — if your breath drifts sideways, airflow is likely sufficient.
Even with good ventilation, a pan of icy water can quench the flame temperature, disrupting combustion and increasing CO output. Research by the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) found that raising pan supports slightly above the burner significantly reduced CO levels during snow melting. Snow-holers should understand the symptoms of CO poisoning, which can include headache, nausea, and dizziness.
While no recorded deaths from CO poisoning have occurred in Scottish snow-holes in recent years, some have reported headaches consistent with exposure. Carrying a small portable CO detector is strongly advised. Always extinguish candles before sleeping — they too emit small amounts of CO.
Key safety guidelines:
• Confirm adequate ventilation before lighting stoves.
• Be aware that even with airflow, cold pans increase CO output by cooling the flame.
• Add snow gradually when melting for water to prevent flame quenching.
• Use a compact CO detector for real-time monitoring.
Overnight snow drift can block entrances and reduce airflow. Studies indicate that with all flames extinguished, hypoxia is not a risk. Poor sleep quality will alert you to low oxygen levels, prompting you to reopen vents instinctively.
Maintaining clear ventilation routes and monitoring air quality are non-negotiable safety practices in winter snow-holing.
A larger snow-hole is safer. Not only are the ventilation characteristics better and but it also gives you space. One potential hazard of digging a small snow-hole is you don’t have enough room to put the snow after severe drifting. Do not underestimate how quickly the snow can drift into some of these snow-hole sites. 1 m per hour is not unusual. On one occasion I did have to tunnel out 1 ½ m before I hit the surface!
Many Scottish snow-hole sites are located near watercourses, and persistent snow cover slows natural decomposition. Managing human waste responsibly is essential to avoid contamination and maintain site sustainability.
Best practices:
• Use a carry-out system for all human waste.
• Participate in local initiatives such as Cairngorm Mountain’s Snow White Project, which supports sustainable snow-hole waste management.
Following these practices preserves the natural environment and ensures these snow-hole sites remain safe and viable for future mountain users.
All mountain adventure activities carry inherent hazards, and snow-holing in Scotland’s winter mountains is no exception. Instructors and guides must understand these hazards and apply appropriate techniques to reduce risk.
It’s been claimed that Snow-holing is dangerous. Compared with winter climbing (for which there is a whole qualification scheme) it isn’t, and mountain rescue statistics support this. However, attempting to snow-hole in Scotland using methods suited for Arctic conditions at -20°C is likely to cause problems in milder Scottish winters.
Structural integrity is critical. One of the most important factors for safety and longevity is avoiding large areas of unsupported roof or ceiling. A properly vaulted ceiling, sufficient roof thickness and ventilation, and careful internal design prevent collapse even as temperatures rise, whereas improperly supported snow-holes quickly lose their structural integrity. Put simply, if more than two people can sleep side by side, your ceiling is too wide!
* Andy holds the WML and IML awards and has over 20 years Mountain Leading experience. He has guided well over 30 commercial snow-holing trips in this time and although none of the mountaineering qualifications have a remit that covers snow-holing, he is one of the few guides deemed competent by HSE criteria of “relevant experience” to run snow-holing trips.
** British Antartic Survey helped in a BSc thesis. Available on request from andrew@scotmountainholidays.com
Medical references:
www.ncbi.nim.ni.gov/pubmed/18665947
www.ncbi.nim.ni.gov/pubmed/9340627
www.ncbi.nim.ni.gov/pubmed/8355417
www.ncbi.nim.ni.gov/pubmed/15265339
Looking for a rewarding and scenic mountain biking route in the Cairngorms National Park? The Burma Road is a local classic—and for good reason. Combining wide Highland views, a challenging ascent, and flowing countryside tracks, this 26-mile loop is a must-ride for adventurous cyclists. It’s suitable for both mountain bikes and gravel bikes and can be tackled straight from the doorstep of Fraoch Lodge, your base in Boat of Garten.
The Burma Road route is a fantastic way to see spectacular views of the Cairngorms and the picturesque countryside of the National Park. Graded hard and requiring a high fitness level to complete, this 26-mile cycling route is achievable in four to five hours.
Trekking over a mixture of tarmac, dirt, grass and rocky tracks makes sections of the trail challenging. And with a three mile extremely steep climb the initial part of the route can come across as particularly challenging. But, overall it is worth the initial exertion.
Distance: 26 miles / 41 km
Ascent: 2123 ft / 647 m
Time: 4–5 hours cycling time
Grade: Hard (fitness and bike handling required)
Bike type: Gravel or mountain bike
Best ridden: Late spring to autumn, when trails are dry and views are clearest
Approx. calorie count: 1800 kcal
The adventure begins right outside Fraoch Lodge, with a pleasant 6-mile warm-up ride to Aviemore, winding through moorland and pine forest. From there, follow the main road through Aviemore and across the A9 to begin the official Burma Road loop.
We can help with maps, gear checks, and even bike hire or guiding if you’d prefer extra support.
Once reaching Aviemore it’s as simple as following the main road through town, crossing the A9 and following a single tarmac road to the Scripture Union Centre at Alltnacriche. Having followed the route through a forest gate this is where things begin to get difficult.
Brace yourself—the first real test is a 3-mile steep climb beginning near the Scripture Union Centre at Alltnacriche. Even seasoned riders often hop off and push sections of this brutal gradient. But perseverance pays off: the higher you climb, the broader the views stretch, with the Cairngorm mountains unfolding behind you.
Don’t forget to pause, catch your breath, and soak in the scenery.
After reaching the high point, you’ll descend a rough, loose track with gravel and erosion channels that demand focus and steady control. Once you reach the bridge at the base, the trail levels and transitions into a more leisurely spin through Highland farmland and riverside paths.
Expect some boggy patches, grassy tracks, and a few gates, but this section is pure joy—especially with the hard climb behind you.
Once back on tarmac en route to Carrbridge, a 1-mile detour to Sluggan Bridge offers the chance to see an 18th-century arched bridge in an atmospheric setting. A photo opportunity not to be missed!
In Carrbridge, reward yourself with a well-earned pint and a snap of the iconic packhorse bridge, before heading the final 5 miles back to Fraoch Lodge via the signed National Cycle Route 7.
Fitness required: High
Bike type: Mountain or gravel with good tyres and gears
Water & snacks: Bring your own; no services on route
Weather: Check the forecast—conditions can change quickly
Navigation: You can download the route on Komoot but we highly recommend carrying an OS paper map as a back up in case of any phone failures. Always best to download your map on your phone, especially in more remote areas with intermittent or non-existent phone signal.
Phone signal: Intermittent, especially on the high section
Bike facilities at Fraoch Lodge: Secure storage, repair tools, drying room, packed lunches, and a hearty dinner to come home to!
No need for a car—ride out straight from your accommodation
Stay in a cycling-friendly lodge with route support and local knowledge
Relax post-ride with home baking, hot showers, and mountain views
Extend your stay with more Cairngorm rides like Glenmore Forest, Ryvoan Pass, or Speyside Way
More pictures and description of the route from Dave Banks
The route reviewed in The Herald newspaper
One of the most frequently asked questions from those joining our winter courses is: What if there is no snow? Although we can’t control the weather, we can almost guarantee there will be snow—especially on the high peaks during winter and early spring. However, for those still concerned, let us put your worries to rest.
The Cairngorms are home to Britain’s most permanent snow beds, some of which persist well into July or even early August. The high altitude and vast plateau of the Cairngorms make them a natural snow trap. Even in milder winters, the unique topography and wind patterns often ensure that snow is captured and retained in key areas. According to a study by the Royal Meteorological Society, the Cairngorm plateau experiences snow coverage for an average of 76 days per year, making it one of the most reliable locations for snow in the UK.
If, for some reason, the winter is unusually mild and snowfall is limited, it’s not the end of the world. Winter Skill courses with Scot Mountain Holidays are designed with flexibility in mind. Snow is just one of three critical factors that influence the course—the other two being wind (which facilitates snow drifting) and the expansive Cairngorm plateau (which helps to capture and hold snow).
Even if snow levels are lower, the skills taught during our courses remain relevant. In fact, hard, icy snow that forms after a thaw and subsequent freeze is often ideal for teaching crampon techniques. Fresh snow, while beautiful, doesn’t always add additional value to winter skills training.
In the 25 winter seasons that Scot Mountain Holidays has been running Winter Skills courses and hiking holidays, no course has ever been cancelled due to a lack of snow. This incredible track record highlights the reliability of the Cairngorms as a winter training destination.
While snow is a strong likelihood on the peaks where our courses take place, there are many other elements that make your experience memorable. Thick, deep snow can sometimes make routes more strenuous. On the other hand, mixed conditions offer a chance to practice a wide variety of essential skills, including:
These skills are just as important, if not more so, than simply walking on deep snow.
Remember, winter skills are about preparing you for all types of conditions you might encounter in the mountains. Snow is a bonus, but not a requirement. The camaraderie, expert instruction, and opportunity to immerse yourself in Scotland’s stunning winter landscape are what truly make Scot Mountain Holidays’ courses unforgettable.
So, whether the snow is thick, patchy, or concentrated in specific areas, rest assured that your Winter Skills course will still be an incredible and valuable experience. The Cairngorms’ rugged beauty, combined with expert guidance, ensures your time with us is both safe and rewarding. As one participant noted, “The course was transformational—I learned so much, regardless of snow levels.”
Join us this winter to develop your confidence and skills in one of the UK’s most dramatic settings. With Scot Mountain Holidays, you’re in expert hands, and no matter the snow conditions, we’ll make sure your time in the Cairngorms is unforgettable.
Scotland is a land of breathtaking beauty, with unique charms that shift with the seasons. While summer often steals the spotlight for visitors, winter remains a hidden gem offering raw beauty, crisp days, and unparalleled hiking experiences. If you’ve been hesitant to venture out during the colder months, let us convince you with five compelling reasons to go hiking in winter and join Scot Mountain Holidays for a trip you’ll never forget.
The peaks of Scotland are awe-inspiring at any time of year, but winter elevates their majesty to a whole new level. Snow-dusted summits, frost-kissed landscapes, and the clarity of winter skies combine to create an otherworldly spectacle. On clear days, the views are nothing short of magical, with the crisp air enhancing visibility and making every vista unforgettable. Scotland’s Cairngorms, for instance, often boast snow-covered peaks that rival the beauty of alpine ranges. Layer up, embrace the brisk wind, and let the beauty of hiking in winter reward your efforts.
What a view! – New Year Winter Walking 2022 – 2023
The cold temperatures of winter naturally deter many would-be hikers, leaving the trails quieter and more serene. This means fewer crowds and more opportunities to immerse yourself in the solitude of Scotland’s wild spaces. With fewer distractions, you can fully connect with nature, reflect, and appreciate the tranquility of your surroundings. Imagine having iconic trails, like those in the Cairngorms or around Ben Nevis, almost entirely to yourself. It’s an unparalleled chance to experience Scotland’s rugged beauty in its purest form while hiking in winter.
Winter unveils a strikingly different perspective of Scotland’s landscapes. The absence of lush greenery exposes the raw, rugged beauty of the mountains—from dramatic rock formations to stark, snow-covered terrain. If you’re lucky enough to encounter fresh snowfall, the transformation is magical. The pristine white blanket enhances the contours and textures of the land, offering photographers and nature enthusiasts endless inspiration during their winter hikes. Plus, winter often brings incredible sunrises and sunsets that bathe the snow-dusted peaks in hues of gold and pink, perfect for unforgettable photos.
Winter sunset colours glowing on the snow covered Cairngorms
For the fitness-minded adventurer, hiking in winter provides an added bonus: increased calorie burn. The colder temperatures force your body to work harder to stay warm, meaning you’ll burn more calories compared to hiking in warmer weather. Add in the effort of navigating snow-covered paths, and your winter hike becomes an even more rewarding workout. Studies suggest that cold-weather exercise can burn up to 30% more calories, making winter hikes both invigorating and beneficial for your health.
Hiking in winter introduces unique challenges, from navigating icy trails to managing colder temperatures. These added elements demand a different level of preparation and skill, but they also offer an unparalleled sense of achievement. Conquering a winter hike builds confidence and leaves you with stories to share for years to come. Proper preparation—like wearing crampons and layering effectively—can transform these challenges into exciting opportunities to learn new skills. Plus, the sense of adventure and novelty makes every step more exciting.
If you’re ready to challenge yourself, embrace the season, and experience some of the most stunning terrain and views imaginable, hiking in winter in Scotland awaits. With the Cairngorms averaging over 100 days of snow cover per year, it’s one of the best places in the UK to experience a true winter wonderland. Join Scot Mountain Holidays for a guided adventure that will leave you with lasting memories and a newfound appreciation for this extraordinary season.
Setting off on expedition across the snowy Cairngorm plateau
When you think of snow, it’s easy to picture adrenaline-filled days of skiing or snowboarding. But what if you’re not a fan of the slopes or simply want to try something different? Scotland offers a winter wonderland full of thrilling alternatives that let you embrace the snow in unique ways.
Here are Scot Mountain Holidays’ top four snowy adventures for non-skiers, perfect for creating magical winter memories.
Hiking isn’t just a summer activity—winter hiking offers a whole new level of magic. With snow-dusted trails and tranquil, crowd-free paths, it’s the perfect way to experience Scotland’s rugged beauty in its most serene form.
Yes, winter hiking comes with challenges, but the rewards are extraordinary. Picture yourself surrounded by glistening peaks, breathing in crisp mountain air, and savoring the quiet that only snow can bring. Just be sure to bundle up and prepare for the elements!
For those craving adventure with a side of learning, Scot Mountain Holidays offers snow skills courses that are as practical as they are exhilarating.
From mastering ice axes to building emergency snow shelters or navigating icy terrain, these courses give you hands-on experience that’s both empowering and fun. Not only will you leave with stories to tell, but you’ll also pick up life-saving skills that every winter enthusiast should have.
Not every snowy adventure needs to be a grand expedition! Sometimes, the best memories come from simple, joyful moments.
Spend an afternoon building a snowman, crafting the perfect snow angel, or engaging in a good old-fashioned snowball fight. If you’re traveling with kids (or just feeling like one yourself), grab a sled and race down a snowy hill.
End your day by cozying up by a roaring fire with a hot drink and a good book. After all, there’s nothing like the warmth of home after a day of snowy fun.
If you’ve never tried snowshoeing, you’re in for a treat! Imagine strapping on tennis racket-like footwear and gliding effortlessly across snowy trails and frozen terrain. Snowshoeing is easy to learn, beginner-friendly, and a fantastic way to immerse yourself in Scotland’s breathtaking winter scenery. However, the snow conditions on the Scottish hills are not always suitable for snowshoeing which lends itself more to the soft powder snow you find in the Rockies or the Alps. It’s far more common to see winter hikers in Scotland out with crampons and an ice axe, than it is to see a group of snowshoers.
From snow-covered peaks to quiet, magical trails, Scotland is the ultimate destination for winter lovers. With Scot Mountain Holidays, you can enjoy a range of activities designed for adventurers who want to experience the snow without strapping on skis or a snowboard.
So, whether you’re trekking through glistening forests, learning new skills, or simply playing in the snow, Scotland promises a winter escape like no other.
Ready to trade the slopes for something different? Let Scot Mountain Holidays help you craft your perfect snow-filled adventure!
Andy Bateman has instructed and guided for over 25 winter seasons across Scotland. At times its blue skies and a winter wonderland but being based in the Cairngorms he is no stranger to the sometimes uncompromising conditions that can be encountered on Scotland’s high mountains during the winter months.
Putting aside the obvious need to dress properly for the conditions, here are a few of his expert winter skills tips:
Unless your rucksack has a facility specifically for carrying crampons safely on the outside, they should be in a crampon bag inside your rucksack when not on your boots. They are heavy items of kit and can easily work loose when attached with exterior straps or bungee. Crampons carried on the outside can also be a source of injury for other members of the party e.g. in high winds.
The snow and ice conditions can be as varied as the weather that creates them. Don’t limit the techniques at your disposal before you’ve even set foot on the mountain by wearing bendy boots. A key and often overlooked feature of a stiff boot is that it allows you to concentrate your weight on the edges of the sole so you’re able to use them to cut into the snow surface. Your boot is as much a tool as your ice-axe or crampons. B1 “winter” boots are often too flexible to effectively kick steps in hard snow; if you try to front point, the toes tend to bend up and the heel drops causing the wearer to feel unstable. Fully rigid B3 mountaineering boots don’t feel overkill for a winter mountain walk.
Crampons at work
There are a few situations where a long shaft is an advantage but they are outweighed by the number of situations where a short shafted axe is your best bet. Go for an axe with a relatively straight shaft and no longer than 55cm irrespective of your height.
Remember in winter trekking your rucksack will be heavier, plus the extra weight of winter boots and crampons on your feet, the underfoot conditions and having to check the map more frequently all conspire to slow your pace. On top of this there are fewer daylight hours. It’s important that you’re not over ambitious with your route plan to prevent being caught out. Always make sure you have a decent headtorch.
Your rucksack is already heavier with all the necessary gear required by winter. Heavy boots, crampons and underfoot conditions will sap energy and slow you down. Don’t burden yourself further with superfluous kit by considering whether an item is really necessary for the day. At the same time, be sure you have everything you need.
Even with an insulated jacket around the tube, once the temperature drops below -3 deg C hydration bladders tend to easily freeze. You are better off with a water bottle in your sack as close to your back as possible to receive a little body heat. Better still take a thermos flask.
There are situations where an ice axe leash is an advantage but there are also a good number of situations where they can be a hazard. Have an arrangement where the leash can be easily added or removed from the head of the axe, i.e. tie a loop in the end of the leash and larks-foot it through the head of the axe. When you aren’t cutting steps or climbing the leash is probably best kept in your rucksack.
Remember, as your core temperature cools your body reduces its circulation to your extremities, like your hands. If you have cold hands, it may well be worth considering putting an extra layer on, as well as warmer gloves. If the body is compensating for a cooling core, to a certain extent, it doesn’t matter how well insulated your hands are, it’s not going to send anymore warm blood to the extremities.
Your body can burn up 40% more calories just by keeping itself warm. Underfoot conditions and heavy gear add to your body’s energy demands. Standing around for more than 10 minutes can mean folks start to get chilled. Schedule-in regular breaks where possible. I find a 10 min break after approximately every 80 min of walking is optimal. You need good judgement and one of the most sensitive organs in your body to a drop in temperature or a lack of energy is your brain. It needs to be well nourished by both.
Striding out to conquer the winter Cairngorms
Why do it? Because this is why it’s worth it.
What does ‘off the beaten track mean to you’? Depending on how adventurous you are, the phrase can mean different things to different people. It can be scary to choose the path less travelled by, but the benefits from getting off the beaten track in Scotland are exhilarating.
But, this certainly doesn’t mean you need to skip all the top sites like Loch Ness. For some, getting out of cities is rural enough and therefore Loch Ness is a great choice. But for those feeling adventurous and wanting to get a little more remote, we can help you there.
Wanting to find a little peace and quiet is the most natural thing in the world whether you’re most at home surrounded by nature, a city dweller or somewhere in between. And arguably, there is no better place than the Highlands of Scotland. Known for its epic beauty, contrasting scenery and out of this world views, you’ll soon find yourself where the air and water are fresher and the most prominent noises keeping you company is nature at its finest.
The Cairngorm National Park is the ideal base for you to experience and explore the remoteness the Highlands can offer. Depending how far off the beaten track you want to get you’ll find an array of options suited for all fitness levels and ages. Offering options to be guided, or self exploration if you prefer, Scot Mountain Holidays has it all.
We understand that only you know what getting off the beaten track means. But, Scot Mountain Holiday trips, by definition are all off the beaten track. It’s unlikely you’ll see crowds of people during any typical day with us. Choosing one of our trips is a great way to decide if the more unusual spots and a more active vacation is the way forward for you.
Whether you’re after hiking, mountain biking, walking or countryside relaxation, you’ll find it here. We can help organise a tailor-made trip for you, friends and family. Or, you can join one of our scheduled trips where you’ll meet like-minded people and gain friends for life. The choice is yours.
We’ve scheduled a new trip for winter 2024. We’re going to be based in Glencoe for a week in March bagging some tasty Munros. It’s a new venture for us so we’ve looked for some spectacular images to illustrate the trip. On a search of Flickr, we found John McSporran. John has kindly agreed not only to lend us some of his spectacular Glencoe images, but he’s also written a brief summary of why he personally finds Glencoe such a fascinating area to explore.
I first began photographing Glencoe about 20 years ago. It is one of those places where the weather is always changing, the light can be fantastic one minute and terrible the next. It can be mean and moody, mystical and magical, but always interesting and frequently awe inspiring. Even on horrible days, that fleeting moment when a beam of light strikes the mountains makes it all worth while.
About 10 years ago I realized that if I wanted the best photos of Glencoe I needed to get high. That’s when I began climbing its mountains. Then I realized that I needed to be ‘up top’ for sunrise and sunset (the golden hours). That’s when I climbed in the dark using a head torch. Then I began to camp out up top. Then I went ‘full on’ and climbed in the dark in mid winter using an ice axe and crampons – just for that one great photograph. Carrying 25 kilos / 55 lbs of camping and photography gear to the top of a mountain can be hard (particularly when in your late 50’s), but the experience of stunning sunrises and sunsets in Glencoe makes it all worth while.
I have met hundreds of people on the Scottish mountains, some I meet many times, some only once, but there is a community spirit amongst those who climb mountains, especially photographers – solitary committed people whose hard shell cracks as soon as we begin to swap stories.
My favourite Glencoe mountains are Beinn a’Chrulaiste and Buachaille Etive Beag. They are not the hardest or the tallest, but they provide the best viewpoints and give sweeping panoramas of the others.
Other favourite locations are:
There are so many great locations, you are spoiled for choice.
We have a saying in Scotland – if you don’t like the weather, wait 15 minutes, it will change. I hope you enjoy your visit to Glencoe.
For more choices of walking holidays in Scotland, head over to our main holiday page
For more information on walking in the Highlands
there are trails all round the area plus several centres with purpose-built tracks like Laggan Wolftrax and Glenlivet Bike Trails. Bikes can be hired from Mikes Bikes or Bothy Bikes in Aviemore.
Enjoy the wild parts of the UK out on your bike
with G2 on the Alvie Estate.
Aviemore has a community ice skating rink again and you can also use the all weather rink at Loch Insh
you could take the public bus to Boat of Garten (5 miles) or Nethybridge (8 miles) and walk back to Aviemore stopping in the Old Bridge Inn for a pint on your return.
and paddle the Spey;
canoe with the Moray Firth dolphins or kayak/canoe on Loch Ness.
Water based options might not be as appealing as you think, but water is surprisingly warm in the winter.
a tour to Loch Ness is a popular option for our guests at Fraoch Lodge
and check out the Findhorn Foundation or visit the Kimberley Inn for lunch and walk along the white sands of the beach.
and try out ice skating.
unfortunately the Aviemore pool at the Macdonald’s resort is not currently available to the public for swimming.
and tour a distillery plus visit the Cooperage
Always a wet or cold day option – a distillery visit or whisky tasting.
or Johnston’s wool mill in Elgin if Knockando is closed. Tours are every hour until 3 or 4pm and are free of charge.
where you can experience the whole wool story from shorn fleece to completed material.
Get crafty if you’d like some time and space to knit, ask Rebecca for recommendations
If you like to see reindeer, you should come to Aviemore, particularly in the winter which is their natural habitat.
and/or the Highland Folk Museum
Traditional village which is part of the Newtonmore Highland Folk Museum
New website for the Cairngorms National park highlighting selected experiences within the park – cairngormsnationalpark.co.uk
Walking holiday options on the west coast of Scotland are almost endless. Knoydart or Skye – where to go? One of the most popular and endlessly filmed locations is the Isle of Skye. The dramatic jagged images of the Skye hills have formed the backdrop for many a dramatic movie. However, there are places which are just as satisfying to walk all up and down the west coat where the views are as magnificent or even more stunning. We’re heading over to Skye and to Knoydart in May this year. See our assessment here of the advantages and disadvantages of each to help you make a decision.
Skye has a huge reputation as a destination in Scotland based on the dramatic nature of its scenery and its romantic attachment to the Stuart/Jacobite legend. The attraction of Skye for hillwalkers and Munro baggers comes from the nature of its terrain. There is nothing to match the jagged peaks of Skye in the UK. The closest comparable peaks are in the Alps, when you may also have to contend the the altitude and the additional possible complication of altitude sickness.
Topping out on the Innaccessable Pinnacle in glorious sunshine weather, Skye May 2016
Skye is more accessible. The bridge over to Skye has made it much more accessible to everyone, especially now there is no toll. However, it has also taken away a small part of the mystique which comes from taking a ferry to get somewhere; it makes you feel more like you’re going somewhere exotic and unknown, almost as if you’re abroad. That’s now missing from the Skye experience (unless you choose to take a ferry route or are island hopping through the Hebrides), but is still a part of going to Knoydart
To reach the actual Munro summits on Skye you will need to do some roped climbing. It is the ambition of many a Munro bagger to reach the top of the Innaccessible Pinnacle. Some will never make it as you do need to have some elementary rock climbing skills and a very good head for heights (see Skye photos below)
Knoydart is only accessible after a boat ride from Mallaig or a long walk in along the peninsula. There is no motorised transport allowed on the peninsula for visitors i.e. you can not take your car there. It still has the feel of being remote and inaccessible. You feel privileged to have the opportunity to visit. Even the public ferry is a relatively small boat but most groups end up chartering wee motor boats to get down the loch to Inverie.
Loch Nevis looking towards the islands of Eigg and Rhum
All the peaks in Knoydart are accessible to a walker without the use of ropes.
You can see the Cuillin Ridge clearly from Knoydart while climbing the peaks there.
Both have excellent dining opportunities, especially if you like seafood.
See our pictorial comparison below:
We’ve chosen 3 images from our Skye collection. They certainly give you an idea of the kind of terrain which makes up the ridge. If you’re on social media (and connected to the right people, which includes us!) you might have seen the famous film of Danny Macaskil riding his mountain bike along the ridge. In fact, you don’t even need to have been on social media as a short programme about the making of the film was shown on BBC TV.
High in the Cuillin mountains of Skye
Sunset over Am Basteir from Sligachan on the Isle of Skye during the Skye Munros itinerary
Sunset over the Cuillin hills in Skye
Britain’s most remote wilderness (on the mainland) – Knoydart does have a very special feel to it.
The ridges of the Knoydart peaks
Eve negotiates the ridge
Mick admiring the view in Knoydart
Knoydart:
The Knoydart Foundation – http://www.knoydart-foundation.com/
The Old Forge, Britain’s most remote pub – http://www.theoldforge.co.uk/
Britain’s most remote wilderness in video – http://www.theguardian.com/travel/video/2013/jun/11/britain-wilderness-scotland-knoydart-peninsula-video
John Muir Trust in Knoydart – https://youtu.be/rGCL7uBRw5s
Skye:
Walkhighlands: The Black Cuillin
TripAdvisor: The Black Cuillin http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g186585-d196763-Reviews-Black_Cuillin-Isle_of_Skye_The_Hebrides_Scotland.html
Black Cuillin Ridge of Skye – http://www.mountainhiking.org.uk/scotland-mountains/skye/skye4.shtml
Danny Macaskill – The Ridge – https://youtu.be/xQ_IQS3VKjA
The Munro Show – Sgurr nan Gillean https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lfc-dDsfV6c
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