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What is it really like to spend a night snow-holing in the Cairngorms?
For many of our guests, a guided winter expedition in Scotland is something they’ve dreamt about for years. Sleeping in a snow-hole, digging into a drift high on the plateau, cooking a hot meal by candlelight — it sounds adventurous (and it is). But it’s also carefully planned, methodical and rooted in decades of experience.
Here’s what expedition day actually looks like.
Expedition day starts early.
The radio goes on at 6:30am and the first task — before tea is even finished — is checking the mountain weather forecast. In the Cairngorms, conditions can shift dramatically overnight. A promising forecast can tighten into a narrow weather window. A calm day can gain edge.
Key questions shape the plan:
Is the forecast holding?
Are wind speeds within safe limits for the plateau?
Do we head further for a wilder feel?
Or do we choose a nearer site with easier retreat options?
Winter skills guiding in Scotland is about flexibility. The plan is never rigid. Even once we leave the lodge, we continue assessing the weather and snow conditions throughout the day.
Winter walking in the Cairngorm Mountains, Aviemore, Scotland. Photograph shows Andy Bateman, a professional mountain guide who runs a holiday walking company called Scot Mountain Holidays. Walkers are taught winter mountain skills such as navigation, using an ice axe and walking across ice using crampons.
map reading using a compass
photograph by David Mansell.
Over breakfast we talk through the day. Guests check gloves, sleeping mats and personal kit. In winter, small details matter.
Before we leave, there’s a briefing on snow-holing technique — and design.
Snow-holes in Scotland are different from the textbook alpine versions you may have seen online.
The Cairngorms are often cold, but perhaps not in the way people expect. While valley bottoms have recorded temperatures approaching -30°C, the Cairngorm summit record is closer to -16°C. At typical snow-holing height on the plateau, seasonal lows might reach -10°C, but most winter nights are nearer -5°C or above.
So Scottish snow-hole design is not about trapping heat at all costs.
It’s about:
Efficient digging
Strong structural integrity
Good ventilation
Managing condensation
Avoiding unnecessary complexity
There’s no need for elaborate sleeping platforms or deep cold-air drains. Instead, we focus on airflow and safety. Ventilation is critical. So is keeping the build time realistic in winter conditions.
Digging in for a snow hole overnight in the Cairngorms
Each person carries a shovel. Snow saws are shared — and in Scottish snow they need to be robust. Our winter snow can range from light powder to what I can only describe as “alabaster marble.” A weak saw doesn’t survive long.
Alongside digging tools, we carry:
Cooking stoves and fuel
Candles
Camping pots and pans
Dehydrated homemade meals (weight matters)
Group safety equipment
With packs loaded, we head up and out onto the Cairngorm plateau — often towards the Ben Macdui massif — into a true winter landscape.
On arrival at a potential site, the group rests while I assess:
Snow depth
Snow stability
Wind loading
Angle of slope
Ideally, we dig into a deep, stable bank. A steeper face reduces digging time. But if there are any concerns about wind slab or structure, we move to a gentler gradient — which means more work, but greater safety.
Once the site is confirmed, entrances are marked out.
Guests pair up — two to a doorway. I’m not a fan of isolated two-person snow-holes. Snow absorbs sound remarkably well. Separate holes can leave people feeling disconnected from the wider group. A communal design provides both psychological comfort and practical awareness.
Here you can see quite clearly the shape of the apex centre for our snowhole.
The first metre is about strength.
Each entrance is driven in at least a metre before we widen the chamber. This maintains a solid front wall — critical for structural integrity.
At first, progress feels slow.
You dig forward 1.5 metres. There’s no sense of space yet — just compact snow and the steady crunch of shovels. You turn sideways and begin cutting toward the neighbouring team. The only sound is your own effort.
Then — faintly — you hear another crunch.
Not yours.
Another. Louder this time.
Momentum builds. Suddenly there’s the unmistakable clash of blades as the two tunnels meet. Relief. Laughter. Energy returns.
Now the chamber opens quickly. Snow is removed from three sides. Walls are squared. The floor is levelled. The apex of the roof is shaped carefully for strength. Ventilation holes are angled upward at high points.
Doorways are partially blocked with snow blocks — but never without ensuring airflow remains sufficient.
Ventilation is checked. Then checked again.
Once complete, the transformation is remarkable.
Outside: wind, spindrift, shifting cloud.
Inside: stillness.
Guests change into dry layers and settle into sleeping bags while I set up the cooking area. Stoves are lit. Candles glow against snow walls. Steam rises quickly in the cold air.
Dinner is simple but deeply satisfying after a full day of digging:
Homemade carrot and cardamom soup
Chorizo and vegetable casserole with couscous
Apricots and custard
Everything is prepared in advance and dehydrated to keep pack weight manageable — a key principle in winter expedition planning.
There’s conversation. The occasional dram appears. The sense of achievement is palpable.
By around 10pm, the stoves are off. Candles extinguished. The plateau falls silent again.
And finally, I zip into my own sleeping bag.
It’s been a long day. But it’s also one of the most rewarding experiences winter in the Cairngorms can offer.
Snow-holing isn’t just about survival skills. It’s about:
Understanding winter mountain conditions
Working as a team
Reading snow and terrain
Experiencing true self-sufficiency
Spending a night immersed in the Highland winter landscape
For many guests, it becomes the highlight of their winter skills course or guided expedition in Scotland.
There’s something uniquely satisfying about creating your own shelter in the snow — and sleeping safely inside it.
Snow-holing has a long and established tradition in Scotland’s winter mountains and in alpine and arctic regions worldwide. Vast amounts of snow still build up in sheltered lee areas on the high, wind-swept Cairngorm Plateau. Many snow-hole sites often hold snow into July, making this a sustainable winter mountaineering activity. However, as Andy Bateman* of Scot Mountain Holidays questions, it’s worth asking whether traditional snow-holing techniques remain appropriate for Scotland’s increasingly mild and variable winter climate. Do we stick with traditional and when it doesn’t work declare snow-holing “dangerous”, or do we prioritize safety and adapt?
Although the Scottish Highlands occasionally make headlines for extreme cold, mountain temperatures never reach true Arctic levels. Recorded lows of below –20°C occur in valley inversions, where cold air pools in glens while summits remain relatively warmer.
For example, Aviemore experiences a wider temperature range than the summit of Cairngorm, whose lowest recorded temperature is only –16.5°C (12 January 1987). By contrast, nearby Nethy Bridge reached an unofficial –31.3°C (10 January 1982)!
At around 1100 m — the typical altitude of many Cairngorm snow-hole sites — winter extremes tend to sit between –8°C and –10°C, with many days around –5°C or warmer. Scotland’s proximity to the North Atlantic Drift keeps conditions comparatively mild, yet still demanding enough to test even experienced snow-holers.
Traditional snow-hole design aims to capture warm air, using raised sleeping platforms, doorways lower than the living area, and cold air drains. Are these features appropriate when winter temperatures in Scotland approach the melting point of the very material providing shelter?
In conditions near 0°C, the focus should be on adequate ventilation to manage internal air temperature and maintain structural stability.
An important point to note is that it takes appreciable heat energy to convert snow at 0 deg C to water at 0 deg C. It means that whilst there may not be a rise in temperature, you may still be “injecting” appreciable heat energy into the snow pack around your snow-hole.
Snow-holing naturally occurs where snow collects deeply — often on steep slopes with the potential for avalanche release. Avalanche risk must therefore be the primary consideration when selecting a site.
If there is any uncertainty about snow-pack stability:
• Avoid slopes steeper than 30 degrees.
• Excavate horizontally from the top of the door at least 1.7 m for slopes of 30 degrees or less before widening the chamber to ensure a minimum 1 m-thick roof.
Scottish snow often becomes extremely hard after repeated cycles of wind, thaw, and refreeze, demanding robust equipment. Ensure you carry:
• A metal-bladed snow shovel – polycarbonate models are largely ineffective in dense, refrozen snow.
• A snow or “carpentry” saw capable of cutting blocks efficiently when snow is too hard to shovel. A number of dedicated snow saws falter when it comes to Scottish snow.
• A 3-metre avalanche probe to confirm adequate horizontal snow depth before excavation.
• A durable ground sheet or tarp for collecting and dragging excavated snow clear of the entrance.
The correct tools greatly improve both efficiency and safety, especially in hardened Scottish snow conditions.
A snow-hole’s roof design is critical to both safety and durability. In Scottish conditions, attention to vault ceiling and load distribution is essential to minimize unsupported snow.
To achieve a stable structure:
• Keep the floor width to no more than two body widths (about 1.2 m) between the inner front and back walls.
• Excavate upward to form a steeply angled vaulted or apex ceiling, which removes large unsupported sections and promotes strength.
This design offers five major benefits:
1. Eliminates triangular sections of unsupported snow.
2. Prevents flat areas that become drip points.
3. Encourages melt water to drain with the snow pack.
4. Provides limited standing height without unnecessary excavation.
5. Directs warm air toward ventilation holes at the apex.
A properly shaped vaulted ceiling is the key to structural longevity. Reducing unsupported ceiling weight matters more than temperature alone. One snow-hole built by Andy Bateman on 25 March remained intact and safe when re-entered on 19 May after a prolonged thaw, with no roof deformation. Similarly, a BBC Travel Show snow-hole I built endured until late June; though its roof was only 30 cm above the floor, it never collapsed. Nearby structures that had become open hollows.
Roof thickness is equally important. When shaping the vault, avoid thinning the roof excessively — thicker is stronger.
• Minimum roof thickness: at least 1 m of snow overhead.
• Light test: blue light will penetrate up to 1m into the snow. If a pale blue glow is visible through the roof, it’s getting too thin.
• Front-wall strength: ensure the wall is no less than 1 m thick at its narrowest point to bear roof loads safely.
In Scottish snow-holing, roof geometry and thickness are the foundations of safety and endurance.
Effective ventilation is vital for safety in any snow-hole. Inadequate airflow when cooking, can lead to dangerous levels of carbon monoxide (CO) — a colourless, odourless gas produced by incomplete combustion.
All pressure stoves operate by first oxidising fuel to CO and then fully converting it to carbon dioxide (CO₂). Flame colour variations indicate this combustion process. When airflow is restricted, the secondary oxidation step fails, increasing CO production.
Simple ventilation test: exhale — if your breath drifts sideways, airflow is likely sufficient.
Even with good ventilation, a pan of icy water can quench the flame temperature, disrupting combustion and increasing CO output. Research by the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) found that raising pan supports slightly above the burner significantly reduced CO levels during snow melting. Snow-holers should understand the symptoms of CO poisoning, which can include headache, nausea, and dizziness.
While no recorded deaths from CO poisoning have occurred in Scottish snow-holes in recent years, some have reported headaches consistent with exposure. Carrying a small portable CO detector is strongly advised. Always extinguish candles before sleeping — they too emit small amounts of CO.
Key safety guidelines:
• Confirm adequate ventilation before lighting stoves.
• Be aware that even with airflow, cold pans increase CO output by cooling the flame.
• Add snow gradually when melting for water to prevent flame quenching.
• Use a compact CO detector for real-time monitoring.
Overnight snow drift can block entrances and reduce airflow. Studies indicate that with all flames extinguished, hypoxia is not a risk. Poor sleep quality will alert you to low oxygen levels, prompting you to reopen vents instinctively.
Maintaining clear ventilation routes and monitoring air quality are non-negotiable safety practices in winter snow-holing.
A larger snow-hole is safer. Not only are the ventilation characteristics better and but it also gives you space. One potential hazard of digging a small snow-hole is you don’t have enough room to put the snow after severe drifting. Do not underestimate how quickly the snow can drift into some of these snow-hole sites. 1 m per hour is not unusual. On one occasion I did have to tunnel out 1 ½ m before I hit the surface!
Many Scottish snow-hole sites are located near watercourses, and persistent snow cover slows natural decomposition. Managing human waste responsibly is essential to avoid contamination and maintain site sustainability.
Best practices:
• Use a carry-out system for all human waste.
• Participate in local initiatives such as Cairngorm Mountain’s Snow White Project, which supports sustainable snow-hole waste management.
Following these practices preserves the natural environment and ensures these snow-hole sites remain safe and viable for future mountain users.
All mountain adventure activities carry inherent hazards, and snow-holing in Scotland’s winter mountains is no exception. Instructors and guides must understand these hazards and apply appropriate techniques to reduce risk.
It’s been claimed that Snow-holing is dangerous. Compared with winter climbing (for which there is a whole qualification scheme) it isn’t, and mountain rescue statistics support this. However, attempting to snow-hole in Scotland using methods suited for Arctic conditions at -20°C is likely to cause problems in milder Scottish winters.
Structural integrity is critical. One of the most important factors for safety and longevity is avoiding large areas of unsupported roof or ceiling. A properly vaulted ceiling, sufficient roof thickness and ventilation, and careful internal design prevent collapse even as temperatures rise, whereas improperly supported snow-holes quickly lose their structural integrity. Put simply, if more than two people can sleep side by side, your ceiling is too wide!
* Andy holds the WML and IML awards and has over 20 years Mountain Leading experience. He has guided well over 30 commercial snow-holing trips in this time and although none of the mountaineering qualifications have a remit that covers snow-holing, he is one of the few guides deemed competent by HSE criteria of “relevant experience” to run snow-holing trips.
** British Antartic Survey helped in a BSc thesis. Available on request from andrew@scotmountainholidays.com
Medical references:
www.ncbi.nim.ni.gov/pubmed/18665947
www.ncbi.nim.ni.gov/pubmed/9340627
www.ncbi.nim.ni.gov/pubmed/8355417
www.ncbi.nim.ni.gov/pubmed/15265339
If you’re an active family with kids aged 12 and up, yearning for an unforgettable adventure, look no further than the Highlands of Scotland. Scot Mountain Holidays offers a unique 2-day, 3-night experience designed to immerse you in the stunning landscapes and rich history of the Cairngorms. Here’s a glimpse into what awaits your family on this off-the-beaten-track journey.
Your adventure begins with a warm welcome at Fraoch Lodge. Arrive later in the day and join us for a delicious dinner made from local produce, much of it sourced from our own garden (except in the depths of winter). Over dinner, we’ll chat about your travels, families, and plans for the days ahead. Andy, our experienced guide, will check the weather and suggest a route for the following day’s hike. He’ll also ensure you have the right gear, as Scottish mountain hikes offer few opportunities for last-minute changes or resupplies.
Wake up to a hearty breakfast of your choice, prepare your packed lunch from an array of fresh options, and get ready for a day of exploration. Andy, who has been guiding in the Cairngorms for about 25 years, will lead you on a hike designed to familiarize you with the area. His deep knowledge of the landscape and its history will make this an enriching experience. You’ll learn about the unique flora and fauna, geology, and environmental conservation efforts in the region.
After your hike, return to the lodge where tea, cake, and a cozy fire (weather permitting) await you. Before dinner, we’ll review the weather and plan your route for the next day. This time, you’ll be on your own but fully equipped with a map, route description, and any necessary transportation arranged by us.
Start your day with another delicious breakfast and prepare for your self-guided hike. Armed with the knowledge and experience gained from your day with Andy, you’ll set out on a personalized route designed to match your ambitions and the prevailing weather conditions. Whether it’s a linear trail offering new vistas or a loop showcasing the diverse landscapes of the Cairngorms, you’re in for an adventure.
One of the highlights of hiking in this region is the chance to encounter wildlife. The Cairngorms are home to capercaillies, crested tits, reindeer, pine martens, wild cats, and the rare red squirrel. You never know what you might see on your journey.
At the end of your hike, we’ll pick you up and bring you back to the lodge for more tea, cake, and relaxation by the fire. This simple formula of eat, sleep, hike underlies all our trips, ensuring you’re well-fed and rested for each day’s adventure.
On your final morning, enjoy a leisurely breakfast and soak in the last moments of your Highland retreat. Despite the physical exertion, you’ll leave feeling mentally refreshed and ready to return home with memories of an incredible family adventure.
Only 120,000 red squirrels are left in Scotland. Less than half the number of grey squirrels.
Our “Get Off the Beaten Track” package is designed for families looking to explore and understand the Highlands through the eyes of an experienced guide. The base package includes:
For those looking to extend their stay, we offer optional packages including:
Ready to plan your Highland adventure? Email us for help in crafting the perfect vacation, hitting all the Highland hotspots and uncovering off-the-beaten-track surprises. For inspiration, check out our Pinterest board and Flickr account.
Join us at Scot Mountain Holidays for an adventure that will bring your family closer to nature and each other. The Highlands of Scotland are waiting for you!
Email us if you think we can help plan your vacation in Scotland – we can hit all the Highland hotspots and include some off the beaten track surprises you might not know about.
The Scottish mountains in winter are beautiful and challenging. They draw walkers and climbers from across the UK and beyond. However, their snow-laden slopes demand respect and a solid understanding of winter skills. Among these, the ice axe arrest is one of the most essential techniques, potentially saving lives if executed correctly.
An ice axe arrest is used to stop an uncontrolled slide on snow or ice. Whether you’ve slipped while traversing or taken a tumble down a steep slope, this skill can prevent a minor mishap from becoming a major incident. Here’s a step-by-step guide to mastering it:
1. Start with the Right Equipment
Ensure you have a proper walking ice axe suited to your height and activity. Keep it readily accessible, especially when on or near a steep, snow or ice covered slope – not stowed away in your rucksack!
2. Practice on a Safe Slope
Choose a gentle, snow-covered incline free from rocks and other hazards. Practicing in a controlled environment builds confidence and muscle memory.
3. Position and Grip
Hold the axe in your uphill hand, with the pick facing backward. Your other hand should cradle the shaft just below the head. This grip ensures you’re ready to arrest at a moment’s notice.
4. Execute the Arrest
If you start sliding:
*In the early days of running Fraoch Lodge, we hosted someone who was unfortunate enough to catch a crampon point when descending from a climb in the northern corries of Cairngorm. He ended up in Raigmore hospital with several fractures in his leg. (He wasn’t in once of our guided groups.)
5. Practise Different Scenarios
Slips can happen in various positions – feet first, head first, on your back, or on your front. Rehearse them all to ensure you’re prepared.
Mastering the ice axe arrest is not just about technique but also about practising regularly and understanding the snow conditions. The best way to effectively perfect your technique is to learn the practical skill under the guidance of an expert during a winter skills course. As winter walkers, we must respect the mountain environment and be prepared for its challenges. For a detailed demonstration, check out our accompanying YouTube video where we break down each step in real-time. Stay safe and enjoy the adventure!
Check out our Top Ten Winter Skills tips: https://scotmountainholidays.com/blog/top-10-winter-skills-tips/
Check out more of Andy’s top winter advice tailored for Scottish winter conditions:
The wild camping, the isolation, the hiking, the heated tipi’s with their innovative ventilation, … We think our Highland Wilderness Glamping Trips are some of the most Covid safe adventure holidays going.
In addition to the measures we’re taking and asking guests to take, here are those measures we are taking with regards to our pack pony supported hiking trips.
Walking is intrinsically much safer since it’s an outdoor activity. Air currents disperse droplets and aerosols quickly. Additionally the movement involved in the activity further aids the process. If social distancing is maintained outdoors, it’s extremely difficult to receive an adequate infectious dose that overwhelms a healthy immune system.
“The risk outside is incredibly low especially if you stay two-metres apart… Droplets fall to the ground quite quickly and aerosols are dispersed by air movements and even more by breezes and winds.”
“outside activities pose very little, if any, risk of new infections“.
“In one Chinese study of nearly 1,300 transmission events, only one occurred outside and they broke social distancing rules,”
Keith Neal, Emeritus Professor of the Epidemiology of Infectious Diseases, University of Nottingham
Additionally, in a Downing Street briefing, Jonathan Van-Tam, the Deputy Chief Medical Officer for England said:
“there is a definite truism across all of the science literature that ventilation is a most critical part of reducing transmission from respiratory viruses”.
“[normal breezes and air currents appeared to quickly disperse] any kind of plumes of anything. So from that perspective, it is absolutely categorically clear that outdoor spaces with higher degrees of ventilation are less problematic environments for transmission than indoor spaces.”
This is also a lot easier in the outdoors. We ask guests to observe 2 m social distancing and to have a face covering at hand should it be quickly needed. A Buff is ideal. “Close contact” is defined as spending 15 minutes within 2 meters of an infected person.
When we talk about “close contact” it’s important to point out that we’re not looking for people the person may have passed on the street or in a shop, as the risk in these situations is very low. A close contact involves either face to face contact or spending more than 15 minutes within 2 metres of an infected person.
Nick Phin, Public Health Matters Blog, Public Health England.
It’s were there is appreciable risk of you taking onboard an adequate viral dose for your immune system to become overwhelmed and hence become ill.
If we do come across other people on the trail our passing is only momentary and it doesn’t qualify as “close contact” The risk in this regard is very small.
We will be passing through gates, etc on the hike so we ask guests to carry their own bottle. Due to the large number of local whisky distilleries we have no problem sourcing hand sanitiser! We have a very large container of it at base to refill your dispenser/container.
We have always tended to head to the quieter areas as we are likely to see more wildlife. Our Highland Wilderness Glamping Covid safe family adventure trips are no exception. The Scottish Highlands are one of the least inhabited areas of Europe. With an average population density of 9 people per square km, they are comparable only to northern Scandinavia. This compares to an average of 400 people per square kilometre in England. The distribution is far from even, creating huge uninhabited areas! If you know where to go it’s quite easy to avoid people.
With all the major Scottish cities being more than 2 hours drive away and with so much countryside, it isn’t difficult to escape up here in the Cairngorms. One of the main ideas behind this concept is to camp in comfort in some of the most beautiful, remote and secluded locations. Our overnight wild camp is reached by leaving the trail and picking up the faintest deer trail! We can pretty much guarantee we will have the location to ourselves!
We think a large Tentipi heated with a woodburner, provides a covid safe environment to socialise. Here’s why:
Social Distancing:
With over 23 square meters of floor space in our Tentipi Safir 9’s, it’s possible to seat 6 people and still maintain 2 m social distance! Yes, a hexagon with 2 m sides will comfortably fit inside an octagon with 2.1m sides!
Covid safe ventilation:
As previously stated ventilation is the key in reducing the chance of transmission. One of the design characteristics of the Tentipi (Nordic Tipis) is their ventilation. Designed to accommodate an open fire, intake vents (11 in graphic) around the base of the Tentipi allow air to flow into the tent while ventilation in the apex (9 & 10 in graphic) allows smoke to escape.
During summer months this ventilation happens passively as a greenhouse effect develops within and the warmed air rises. The woodburner running enhances it greatly.
An additional effect of warming the air is the drop in its relative humidity. This potentially has positive implications with respect to airborne transmission. There is presently some debate as to the role of airborne transmission. In dry air aerosols (less than 5 microns) can evaporate very quickly, in less than one-tenth of a second! This drying process potentially damages the virus preventing it being infectious i.e. it disinfects.
The portable woodburner sits in the centre of the Tentipi with the flue rising 3.1 meters to the apex. Further heated by the flue increases airflow and reduces relative humidity. Sitting 2 m apart around the stove, expired air drifts up and out of the top vents.
The main tent fabric is an impregnated polycotton canvas and is hence breathable. The benefits are 2 fold. In combination with a heat source (camp woodburner) it helps dry the air for the benefits explained above. Secondly it is a porous service;
Preliminary research published in The New England Journal of Medicine indicates the virus doesn’t survive on porous surfaces for more than 24hrs. Porous surfaces, like wood, cardboard and natural fabrics are thought to have a dehydrating effect on the virus.
The same research found the virus may remain viable on plastic (polypropylene) and stainless steel (AISI 304) for up to three days. On copper, well known for its antimicrobial properties, it lasts for no more than four hours.
To be on the safe side though our approach is to simply air the tent for 72 hours between groups.
A wet cloth and soap solution cleans the groundsheet at the end of the evening. Yes, soap is a disinfectant! It works by breaking up the exterior cell wall of SARS-CoV-2, the virus that causes Covid-19.
We make the simple rule that each household sleeps in separate tents on this covid safe adventure.
Each Exped Deep Sleep System comes with its own pumpsack. Whilst on the move this acts as a stuff sac keeping everyone’s bedding separate. Come the end of the trip, camp sheets, pillow cases, duvet covers and pump-sacks are laundered in the normal way. Sleeping mattresses, duvets and pillows are cleaned and not used for 72 hours.
“In general, because of poor survivability of these coronaviruses on surfaces, there is likely very low risk of spread from food products or packaging.”
Centres for Disease Control and Prevention, USA Government
“Although it is very unlikely that COVID-19 is transmitted through food or food packaging, as a matter of good hygiene practice anyone handling food must wash their hands frequently with soap and water for at least 20 seconds.”
Guidance for food businesses on coronavirus (COVID-19), UK Government
In addition to general good hygiene as above, guides preparing food for the group will wear a face covering. With a hot camp wood burner sterilising the Stainless Steel eating utensils is easily.
Depending on the number of households involved we are accepting a maximum of 4 to 6 guests on these covid safe adventure trips.
As previously stated, research has found the virus doesn’t survive beyond 72 hours on any surface. In addition to doing the regular cleaning we leave 72 hours between trips to add an extra level of security.
We hope you agree our Highland Wilderness Glamping Trips provide a covid safe family adventure.
Whatever winter sport is your passion, getting the most out of the UK winter season is inevitably about being opportunistic. You need to jump to it when the conditions are right. Getting into the hills requires some degree of planning. You need to learn all the tips you can on about how to forecast snow. When forecasters tend only to predict 3 days in advance, it doesn’t give much time to get organised.
Season passes have been released by Cairngorm Mountain and quite possibly the other ski centres across Scotland. Now’s the time to keep your eye out for the snow predictions.
This changes though when you understand atmospheric thickness and how it relates to the 5 day synoptic weather charts. Have you ever noticed those numbered dashed lines hiding behind the isobars? (see below – on Bracknell charts predicting 36 hrs or more ahead) Well they represent the thickness of the atmosphere and this directly relates to the temperature of the air-mass. Bear with me, here’s the techie bit.
Air pressure at sea level tends to equalise at around 1000mb. The colder the air, the greater the density and hence you need less of it volume wise to create that 1000mb pressure. Therefore the atmosphere is thinner at the poles than it is at the equator. Meteorologists have realised that by measuring the altitude at which the air pressure halves (i.e. is 500mb) they can plot the movement of cold air from the polar regions towards the equator. In the northern hemisphere these thickness lines represent the southern limit of cold air moving down from the north.
As far as wintry weather in the UK’s mountains is concerned it’s the 528 line (equates to 5280m) you want to watch out for. When it crosses the UK you can expect snow on the hills at least. They are a bit like contour lines. The closer together they are the more the marked the temperature change but if, lets say, the 528 line is 300 miles out to the west over the Atlantic you might be at least be expecting snow on the highest tops in Scotland. If the 510 line approaches the UK wrap up warm, very warm! The charts predicting the arrival of the “Beast from the East” had the whole of the UK enveloped beneath the 510 line!
For those of you who can jump to it and might be in need of accommodation in the Northern Cairngorms area check out Fraoch Lodge.
Every year there are reports of people getting lost in the snow and ice of winter. Mountain rescue callouts are predominantly about navigation errors. To make winter a safer place, it is a good idea to book a guide to lead or alternatively join a group heading out into the hills. Some groups are organised by companies on commercial trips, others are groups of friends or clubs. Nonetheless there is safety in numbers.
Every year there are winter wilderness expeditions running under the guidance of Andy Bateman of Scot Mountain Holidays in the Cairngorms and Glen Affric. There’s also usually a trip to Knoydart, home to Britain’s most remote pub; however there is a major reforestation project going on there this year which makes it less attractive to visit and all the accommodation will be taken by the forestry workers.
Life will be reduced to basics during the expedition and the only concerns will be: eat – sleep – hike (repeat). The perfect way to clear the mind and return feeling completely refreshed after only a few short days.
This is a rare opportunity to experience one of the remotest parts of the Cairngorms National Park at a time when the mountains are probably at their most glorious. The High Cairngorms are renowned for their wintry conditions yet at this time very few folk dare to do multi-day trips
Celia enjoying her second (or third) winter expedition with Scot Mountain Holiadays
Highlights: winter skills, Monadh Mhor (Munro), Devil’s Point (Munro) Carn a’ Mhaim (Munro), Derry Cairngorm (Munro), Beinn a’ Chaorainn (Munro)
Price: £ on application
Email: SCO@scotmountainholidays.com for full information about this trip.
MINIMUM GROUP SIZE: 3 PEOPLE – Private dates available. Please enquire.
This is Scotland’s ultimate winter mountain journey. The high “plateau” route takes in Britain’s 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th highest peaks on a journey that circumnavigates Scotland’s finest and best known mountain pass, the Lairig Ghru.
Check out the potential avalanche sites on the head wall. You can see how the corrie came to be made
Highlights: winter skills, Cairngorm (6th Highest Munro), Ben Macdui (2nd Highest Munro), Braeriach (3rd Highest Munro), Cairn Toul (4th Highest Munro), Sgor an Lochain Uaine (Munro)
Price: £ on application
Email: CWO@scotmountainholidays.com for full information about this trip
MINIMUM GROUP SIZE: 3 PEOPLE – Private dates available. Please enquire.
Imagine the soft orange light of a winters dawn gleaming down from the snowy celestial heights. Surrounded by snowy peaks and cradling a mug of tea in the crisp air, indeed a stunning winter’s day beckons.
Highlights: winter skills, Mullach Fraoch – choire (Munro), Mam Sodhail (Munro), Carn Eighe (Munro), An Socach (Munro), Carn a’Choire Ghairbh (Munro)
Spotting deer in Glen Affric while on winter expedition in Scotland
Price: £ on application
Email: Shangri-La@scotmountainholidays.com for full information about this trip
MINIMUM GROUP SIZE: 3 PEOPLE – Private dates available. Please enquire.
Or for something slightly different
“Porridge with whisky at 9am whilst warm & dry in my sleeping bag has never tasted better!” Ric Taylor,Bristol.”
Have you ever dreamt of taking a short walk amongst a moonlit snowy wonderland. Amazingly no need for a torch! Imagine reflected flickering candle light giving way to the soft light of a winters dawn as you emerge from you snowy abode. Not a soul about! We’ll have a vast pristine winter wonderland all to ourselves. It’s a remarkable experience.
Highlights: winter skills on Cairngorm, overnight expedition to sleep in a snow cave, creation of said snow cave
how to build a snowhole in Scotland
All digging and cooking equipment supplied by your hosts, Scot Mountain Holidays.
Check full details on the website
Highlights:
Accommodation: Barrisdale Stable (if available) or heated Tentipi
MINIMUM GROUP SIZE: 3 PEOPLE – Private dates available. Please enquire.
Highlights:
Accommodation: Barrisdale Stable (if available) or heated Tentipi
MINIMUM GROUP SIZE: 3 PEOPLE – Private dates available. Please enquire.
Horse welfare: When we conceived the idea of our Highland Wilderness Glamping trips, our primary concern was the welfare of the ponies.
This aspect should quite rightly be a consideration for anyone planning to book an adventure trip involving animals. There’ve been plenty of examples where animal welfare could have been better on adventure trips, both at home and aboard.
Putting aside our own personal wishes that they should be happy, pony welfare needs to be a top priority if you’re going to have a safe and sustainable business. A happy pony is a safe pony.
There is some confusion in terms of what constitutes good practical pony welfare. Our approach is a pragmatic practical one based on experience and not on any idealism.
Firstly, our ponies are inspected by the Highland Council appointed Vet as part of a local riding centres yearly inspection. By law there is now a strong animal welfare element to this inspection which is connected to the granting of the licence to operate as a pony trekking centre.
When we started to put these trips together we approached Highland Council to make sure we were on their radar, that they were happy with our plans and comfortable with us being inspected as part of a local riding centre.
We use both the Highland and Fell Ponies. Both are British mountain/moorland breeds and are noted for their hardiness, strength and surefootedness. With their relatively short backs both breeds are well adapted to carrying loads. In fact the Fell Pony has a long history of being used as a packhorse, possibly dating back as far back as Viking times. They are good fast walkers.
The Highland Pony has been developed in the Scottish Highlands as a work horse. They are stocky and very strong and are quite able to live outside throughout the harsh Highland winters. Their thick winter coats are so well insulated that it’s not unusual for snow to lie on their backs! They are still regularly used to bring culled deer down off the mountains.
They are well adapted to surviving on particularly rough grazing. With this in mind, what they eat does need to be monitored and managed. Leaving them to their own devices in a field of lush grass can be a recipe for disaster. It can quickly lead to them becoming obese and being prone to insulin resistance and laminitis. They do need regular exercise.
In fact, one of the biggest welfare issues at the moment is overweight ponies due to inadequate exercise. Whether carrying riders or packs, this offers valuable exercise and mental stimulation for the ponies. As with humans, an overweight pony puts added wear and tear on their joints as well as potentially developing other health issues.
We use Custom Pack Rigging saddles imported from Canada. They are regarded by many in the horse packing world as the finest pack saddles on the market. They differ from the more traditional pack saddle styles in as much the bars pivot on the end of the arches. It means the bars automatically conform much more closely the ponies back shape. The bars are also ergonomically shaped as well as having the option of altering the width of the arches so as to ensure the perfect fit.
The pack saddle sits on top of a pack saddle pad. It’s a 1 inch (2.5cm) thick dense felted wool pad to provide protection for the pony. Its width is 82 cm, the same dimension of the bags we use. The bags are padded out with foam inserts to provide additional protection.
The pad is lined with a wool cover which can be easily removed and cleaned.
The long established golden rule of horse packing is that the ponies carry no more than 15% of the pony’s own body weight. By comparison for riding, the figure is 20% is a human is generally a more dynamic load.
Taking the lower end of the Highland Pony weight range to be 500 kg this gives a weight of 75kg (just under 12 stone). Excluding the weight of the pack saddle my Highland Pony carries 64kg (10 stone – the weight of a light human)
It is very important for pony comfort that the loads on either side of the pony are finely balanced. They need to be within 100 grams of each other i.e. just over 0.15 % of what they can carry. 2 people are involved in securing the bags to the pack saddle to make sure the pony isn’t uncomfortably unbalanced whilst being loaded. The main bags are a maximum of 20Kg each to both be manageable and to fit in with lifting regulations.
The top load and pannier bags are stabilised using a length of rope and a triple diamond hitch and a second girth.
Common to British mountain/moorland pony breeds, Fell and Highland ponies are intelligent. They have a good sense of self preservation that comes from their ability to survive the harsh upland climate. They are able to convey their feelings and as owners we are able to interpret their behaviour. Highland and Fell ponies are not dumb!
If a pony doesn’t take well to the pack saddles, we don’t use them. It’s as simple as that. Goldie is a case in point. We also always take 2 ponies so they have each others company, they are after all a herd animal.
Nothing about mountain navigation is rocket science. Then again it is not a god given talent either. It does though require both a good understanding and the right approach to deal with the worst conditions in the mountains.
In good conditions with good visibility you can quite successfully navigate without reaching for your compass. Neither will you need to resort to the “dead reckoning” techniques of timing and pacing to gauge your distance. By relating the features on the map to those on the ground you can safely get to your destination. Some of those features will be man-made like field boundaries. Other more obvious natural features include streams or ponds or lakes. But many of those features, especially in Scotland, will be made up of a combination of a change in gradient and a change in slope aspect (which way the slope faces).
Take a little rounded hill (knoll) for instance: as you rise up onto it the gradient will increase before flattening out on the summit.The gradient then increases again as you drop down the other side. It will be shallower again at the bottom. If you were to walk around its flanks you would continually experience a change in slope aspect. If we think about other features like ridges, spurs, valleys, gullies, saddles, etc, they’re all a combination of changing gradient and slope aspect. Both slope aspect and gradient are indicated by contour lines.
Map reading in the Cairngorms
Accuracy in a particular skill is important. However the key aspect of accurate Mountain Navigation is your ability to manage error. It’s a fatal mistake rely too much on the absolute accuracy of a few skills. Don’t ignore the importance of applying techniques or strategies that reduce or negate the effect of error. If we think how most folks get lost on the mountains it’s when they are trying to navigate to a point beyond their range of visibility. One strategy is to keep your navigational legs short. A 10% error in distance or direction over 2 km will be 4 times that over 500m. But if we are to do this we will need to be able to identify more way-marking points. This, especially in Scotland, often comes down to contour features.
Dachstein mitts don’t necessarily mean that you won’t be able to use a compass or to navigate, as shown by our director Andy Bateman
In winter whiteout conditions where you are, let’s say making a descending traverse, where you have no horizon and loose the definition of slopes and other features, it can be very difficult to stay on a compass bearing. But again it may be a change in the gradient or slope aspect which maybe the first (and maybe only) indication that you have drifted off your compass bearing. Bad visibility of course encourages you to abandon any attempt at interpreting the lie of the land. This is the last thing you want to do and it’s even more important that you keep a close eye on the terrain.
Test your limits, within your means
It all comes back to you contour interpretation. This is the crux of good mountain navigation and around which all the other navigational skills like compass bearings fit and relate. Of course this all makes perfect sense when you consider, by definition, mountains are composed of slopes and in turn those slopes must have an aspect and gradient. It is very important that all the various navigational skills and techniques are related to each other and not taught in isolation. One of the common points of failure on Summer ML assessments is when candidates place an over reliance on compass bearings and timing and pacing techniques and don’t develop their contour interpretation skills. Your “dead reckoning” skills are of course important and you would never be without you compass on the hill but they are in effect auxiliary skills, albeit very important ones, to your contour interpretation.
Andy Bateman, Scot Mountain Holidays, 26/3/15. (updated 14.01.2020)
Mountain Navigation by Peter Cliff:
Weather for Hillwalkers and Climbers by Malcolm Thomas
Mountaincraft and Leadership by Eric Langmuir
Hillwalking the official handbook of the mountain leader by Steve Long
Winter Skills: Essential walking and climbing techniques by Andy Cunningham
Useful links:
Mountaineering Council of Scotland:
British Mountaineering Council:
British Association of International Mountain Leaders:
Mountain Training Association:
Having delivered navigation courses for the last 20 years here are Andy Bateman’s top tips and strategies.
It’s always struck me that describing winter mountain navigation as a bit of a “black art” isn’t a particularly helpful phase for anyone trying to get their head around the subject. Dealing with even the worst of winter white-outs isn’t rocket science but it does require the right approach, mindset and plenty of practice. Here are my top tips:
Of all the mountain navigation techniques and skills, contour interpretation is the most stand alone skill. In fine conditions it’s quite possible to get you to your objective without the use of any another technique. It should be the central pillar of all serious mountain navigation courses with all other skills and techniques relating to it.
Contour interpretation gives you your direction and distance. Where ever you are in the world, by definition mountains will always have slopes. Slopes have a gradient and an aspect, both of which are denoted by contour lines. Changing gradient and aspect combine to form many of the terrain features like ridges, valley’s, knolls, spurs etc. It’s by relating our position to these on a navigational leg that gets us to our destination. Also when things don’t go quite according to plan, its the terrain that may well indicate what “plan B” should be.
Seek out well defined but small contour features. Look for abrupt changes in either the spacing between the contour lines or abrupt changes in the direction of the contour. If both come together at the same point, fantastic! This well defined feature may well be discernable on the ground and it’s small size will help to pinpoint your position. Being able to recognise a good contour objectives in this way is an important skill. On navigation courses I often recommend guests take themselves onto a hillside and rather than aiming for the summit, practise seeking out these type of contour features.
Although vitally important in winter mountain navigation, compass work, dead reckoning techniques (timing & pacing), etc should serve to back up your contour interpretation in poorer conditions but never replace it!
Don’t let the conditions dissuade you from monitoring the terrain. Putting aside blowing snow, have you ever paced out the visibility in a winter whiteout? The actual visibility is often better than it appears. The lack of definition due to everything being white and the flat light, is often mistaken as bad visibility. Although often not great, quite frequently visibility will be 50m or more. 50m one way and 50m in the other direction gives you a span of 100m. If you’re on top of other aspects of your mountain navigation it can still be enough to monitor you position in relation to the terrain. In bad conditions it’s even more important that you are interpreting the contours.
Micro navigation in winter
Making a diagonal descent across a snow and ice covered slope with a strong cross wind, in a whiteout is going to challenge even the most experienced winter navigator to stay on his/her bearing. It’s changes in gradient or slope aspect that might be the only indication that you have you’ve drifted off your bearing or maybe gone too far.
Think about putting your crampons on when employing dead reckoning techniques. The last thing you want is to find you are unsure of your footing half way though your pacing or timing. It can be very disruptive. Get to know how wearing crampons effects your pacing and speed.
Navigational accuracy operates at 2 levels; firstly, accuracy in any particular skill or technique, and secondly, what could be referred to as “error management”.
There are well recognised techniques like: aiming off, attack points and collection features. Each of these techniques either corrects or negates accrued error.
Employ a number of techniques simultaneously so to avoid being dependent on the absolute accuracy of any one particular technique. If you’re properly monitoring gradient, slope aspect, features, distance and direction during a navigational leg you hopefully won’t go too far wrong.
Keep your navigational legs to below 1 km. A 10% error in distance or direction over 2km is going to be 4 times that compared with that over 500m. The more contour features you can identify, the more waypoints you have and hence the shorter your legs can be. It all goes back to the contours!
Be wary about navigating to water features in winter. Stream channels often fill with snow leaving no surface indication of their presence. Shallow Lochans, lakes and ponds readily freeze solid and won’t sink when loaded by further snowdrifts leaving us without even the luxury of flat surface. The shallow margins of deeper bodies of water can behave similarly thereby reducing their apparent size. Some lakes freeze over and the remaining water drains out. The unsupported ice, which may be buried by snow, then warps and takes on the form of the undulating lake bed again robbing us of any indication of the lakes position.
At the end of a navigational leg make sure you’re definitely at your intended objective. Reassess your timing and pacing. Snow conditions can change within a matter of hours. Was your estimated speed correct or did that unexpected patch of deep soft snow you just had to plough through slow us down? How does the terrain look? The next leg may well accrue a little error. You don’t want to compound the situation by transferring error from you last leg to it.
Keep mental arithmetic to an absolute minimum
Use the romer scales on your compass base plate. Mental arithmetic is easily done in indoors but it can be a whole lot more difficult whilst being battered by high winds and sub zero temperatures.
Available for purchase (£5)
Use a time-pace matrix with pre-calculated times and double pace figures. The more comprehensive the better! Aside from increasing accuracy, a very detailed matrix affords you the ability to compare values of similar double pace rates or speeds for the leg distance. The difference between similar values in effect indicates an acceptable range of error relative to the length of the leg. You can then use this to compare with what other techniques are indicating. – an additional powerful navigational tool!
Use some method to count paces. You will have other thinks to keep an eye on and there is always a chance of an interruption. It’s easy to loose count. Using the traditional cord with toggles on the rucksack strap keeps your hands free.
Your brain is your most important navigational ‘tool’ so plan regular short breaks to keep it well nourished with food and drink. I find 80 mins of walking followed by a 10 minute break generally works well. A stop of this length is quickly used up to adjust clothing, eating, drinking, etc, but more than this and you will start to chill quickly.
If you’re cold, stop and do something about it. Don’t necessarily wait for the next ascent to warm you up. A resultant lack of resolve to make sure things are right may lead to a navigational error that leads to a much greater delay.
Make a rough estimation of what your bearing will be before you take it. This will help to guard against making simple but easy mistakes. NE bearing will be around 45 degrees plus or minus 22.5 degrees. 22.5 degrees is the difference between NE and ENE. If its S it will be around 180 degrees, W 270 degrees and so on …
You may well have to opt for less ambitious objectives than you might normally do in the summer. The available daylight will be less. The conditions, the wearing of crampons and the carrying of a heavier pack makes for a slower pace. You will invariably have to make more stops to; check the route, put crampons on & off, etc. than compared in winter
The route you take may have to be less direct to take in more and better defined way-points.
When planning your route take into account avalanche hazard. No only do you need to consider whether the terrain you cross may be prone to avalanches but whether you may be crossing the run out zone for avalanche prone terrain above. The earlier you start incorporating avalanche hazard evaluation into your route planning the better.
Invest in a good pair of snow goggles. You can’t afford to be without your vision. Even snowflakes hitting your eyes on relatively light winds can be particularly uncomfortable. Trying to navigate into the teeth of a 30mph blizzard without eye protection is purgatory. In the bad conditions sunglasses become useless. Adequate eye protection is an absolute must.
Don’t skimp on this thinking it’s just for emergencies. The challenges of navigating high in the mountains after dusk can increase substantially. A strong beam can really help. During the winter months the chances of finishing the day in the dark increase substantially.
These can be useful in strong winds or soft snow but don’t allow their use to prevent you from employing appropriate navigational techniques, or for that matter your ice axe. If the compass is in use and you’re frequently referring to the map, etc then your poles are best stowed away.
a) An adequately sized transparent base plate (10cm plus in length),
b) A magnifying glass for examining contour detail
c) Romer scales to help minimise mental arithmetic.
Over the years I’ve had guests turn up on navigation courses with either the wrong type of compass or cheap poorly designed ones. It’s often not until guests start to use them on the navigation courses that they realise their failings. Silva produces good one. Choose yours carefully.
On navigation courses cameras and mobile phones have been the main culprits for interfering with compass needles when brought too close. Be conscious of where these are stored in relation to where your compass is stored and used. Steel components on ice axes & trekking poles can also have an effect. On one navigation course a guest had magnetic closures in the storm flap of her jacket zip!
Guests are often surprised we don’t automatically go for the 1:25 000 maps on our navigation courses. It is down to personal preference but here are 3 points to consider for winter?
A 1:50 000 map has twice as many grid eastings as on a 1:25 000 (2 cm & 4 cm spacing respectively) making it much easier to find an appropriately positioned grid easting when taking a bearing. In most compasses the needle housing is approximately 4cm in diameter, the same as the spacing between grid eastings on a 1:25 000 map. With this scale in bad conditions the lack of eastings can be an irritation when trying to take some N-S-ish bearings. This problem is exacerbated by compasses with small base plates.
The wealth of terrain information e.g. loose rock, heath, etc on some 1:25 000 scale maps tends to obscure the contour lines. In winter this extra surface information is often irrelevant as it’s buried.
By opting for the combination of a 1:50 000 map and an A5 sized map case (Ortleib referred to it as a A5 ‘document Bag’) you’ll find the map far more manageable in high winds. At this scale an adequate area of the map is displayed to avoid refolding the map on the hill but is small enough to conveniently fit in a jacket pocket for easy access whilst being weatherproof in a map case.
Your map case is a means by which you can attach the map to yourself.
Scot Mountain Holidays runs mountain navigation courses throughout the year both as stand alone courses as well as part of our winter skills courses.
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Boat of Garten,
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