Andy Bateman has instructed and guided for over 25 winter seasons across Scotland. At times its blue skies and a winter wonderland but being based in the Cairngorms he is no stranger to the sometimes uncompromising conditions that can be encountered on Scotland’s high mountains during the winter months.
Putting aside the obvious need to dress properly for the conditions, here are a few of his expert winter skills tips:
Unless your rucksack has a facility specifically for carrying crampons safely on the outside, they should be in a crampon bag inside your rucksack when not on your boots. They are heavy items of kit and can easily work loose when attached with exterior straps or bungee. Crampons carried on the outside can also be a source of injury for other members of the party e.g. in high winds.
The snow and ice conditions can be as varied as the weather that creates them. Don’t limit the techniques at your disposal before you’ve even set foot on the mountain by wearing bendy boots. A key and often overlooked feature of a stiff boot is that it allows you to concentrate your weight on the edges of the sole so you’re able to use them to cut into the snow surface. Your boot is as much a tool as your ice-axe or crampons. B1 “winter” boots are often too flexible to effectively kick steps in hard snow; if you try to front point, the toes tend to bend up and the heel drops causing the wearer to feel unstable. Fully rigid B3 mountaineering boots don’t feel overkill for a winter mountain walk.
Crampons at work
There are a few situations where a long shaft is an advantage but they are outweighed by the number of situations where a short shafted axe is your best bet. Go for an axe with a relatively straight shaft and no longer than 55cm irrespective of your height.
Remember in winter trekking your rucksack will be heavier, plus the extra weight of winter boots and crampons on your feet, the underfoot conditions and having to check the map more frequently all conspire to slow your pace. On top of this there are fewer daylight hours. It’s important that you’re not over ambitious with your route plan to prevent being caught out. Always make sure you have a decent headtorch.
Your rucksack is already heavier with all the necessary gear required by winter. Heavy boots, crampons and underfoot conditions will sap energy and slow you down. Don’t burden yourself further with superfluous kit by considering whether an item is really necessary for the day. At the same time, be sure you have everything you need.
Even with an insulated jacket around the tube, once the temperature drops below -3 deg C hydration bladders tend to easily freeze. You are better off with a water bottle in your sack as close to your back as possible to receive a little body heat. Better still take a thermos flask.
There are situations where an ice axe leash is an advantage but there are also a good number of situations where they can be a hazard. Have an arrangement where the leash can be easily added or removed from the head of the axe, i.e. tie a loop in the end of the leash and larks-foot it through the head of the axe. When you aren’t cutting steps or climbing the leash is probably best kept in your rucksack.
Remember, as your core temperature cools your body reduces its circulation to your extremities, like your hands. If you have cold hands, it may well be worth considering putting an extra layer on, as well as warmer gloves. If the body is compensating for a cooling core, to a certain extent, it doesn’t matter how well insulated your hands are, it’s not going to send anymore warm blood to the extremities.
Your body can burn up 40% more calories just by keeping itself warm. Underfoot conditions and heavy gear add to your body’s energy demands. Standing around for more than 10 minutes can mean folks start to get chilled. Schedule-in regular breaks where possible. I find a 10 min break after approximately every 80 min of walking is optimal. You need good judgement and one of the most sensitive organs in your body to a drop in temperature or a lack of energy is your brain. It needs to be well nourished by both.
Striding out to conquer the winter Cairngorms
Why do it? Because this is why it’s worth it.
Deciding to book a winter skills course is a matter of safety in the hills. You definitely don’t want to be the one who’s on the wrong end of a call to mountain rescue. Most rescue callouts stem from navigational error, but not being prepared for the wild conditions can be a contributing factor. The Cairngorms offer some of the most consistent full-on winter conditions for the aspiring winter walker. Learning here under the expert tutelage of experienced, qualified guides is an experience which will stand you in good stead for the rest of your life.
Andy Bateman of Scot Mountain Holidays gives you some of his experience as a result of 20 years of coaching winter skills and navigation in the Cairngorms.
As the first snows arrive on the mountains many hang up their hiking boots. They wait until spring to go out again. Yet if you continue to head out throughout the winter, you could have some sensational days out. Cold air holds less moisture so on a clear day the views go in forever, the horizon crystal clear. The wonderful Jack Frost creation that is rime ice marks the air flow aroundevery stone and boulder. This is all the result of freezing hill fog on the wind. Older lying snow is scoured by the wind to produce the wonderful flutings. These are called Sustrugi. All these natural sculptures interplay with the soft light of a winters day.
All kinds of natural sculptures appear in the hills during winter
Photo caption & credit: The snow turns the Cairngorm plateau into a place of beauty (taken by Andy Bateman, Scot Mountain Holidays)
Of course this environment isn’t without its hazards. It is no place for the ill prepared. Once trained in the essential winter skills there’s a very special sense of privilege. This comes from being able to exist confidently and comfortably in this hostile yet pristine and beautiful winter wonderland.
The conditions on the British mountains in winter are often as varied as the weather that’s created them. You need a good variety of skills at your disposal. Your winter boot is just as much a tool as your axe or crampons. It needs to be of adequate stiffness. On steep snow and ice covered ground good footwork is the watchword. Your approach should be from the perspective of prevention rather than cure. You should try step kicking and cutting or crampon techniques before resoring to the techniques of self-belay and self-arrest.
Self-arresting on a winter skills course in the Cairngorms
Photo caption: Practising winter skills in the Cairngorms – the classic feet first on your front self-arrest (5 day winter skills course with Scot Mountain Holidays)
Knowing though, that when all else fails, you can confidently and quickly stop a sliding fall, with or without an axe is a fantastic fillet to your confidence. Some of the self-arrest techniques are straight forward enough but others are not; sliding head first on your back is a case in point. Understanding the body position that is required for the forces of gravity to work in your favour is all important; in one fluent move you flip you’re yourself onto your front whilst swinging your legs beneath you – easy when the dynamics and body posture have been clearly explained.
For many the step up in navigation standard that’s demanded by the winter mountains is often the biggest challenge of all. Here the right approach is crucial and accuracy comes in a number of forms and levels. Being totally reliant on the absolute accuracy in your compass bearings and dead reckoning techniques (timing and pacing) has been the unravelling of many an aspiring Mountain Leader. In the often flat light conditions of winter, contour interpretation becomes even more imperative yet perceived poor visibility encourages folk to abandon this vital skill.
Many good mountain navigation techniques come in under the heading of “error management”. Some of these techniques will be familiar to the experienced: aiming off, collection features and attach points but these are just a few of the techniques that can be used to make life easier in the winter mountains. Good winter navigation skills could be the difference between stay on safe ground and straying onto that that is prone to a slide.
Highly skilled micro-navigation in practice
Photo Caption: Winter micro-navigation using Andy’s patented timing and pacing chart (winter navigation course with Scot Mountain Holidays)
Evaluating Avalanche hazard is another subject difficult to get a handle on. There are though pertinent points that, when borne in mind at the planning stage, can already be starting to reduce your chances of ever being caught in an avalanche. Yes, you could start avalanche hazard evaluation in the summer months long before the snow has arrived! It is of course though, an ongoing process of monitoring right through to the end of the trip and not least of which is viewing and understanding the avalanche forecast.
If you would like to discuss any of the points Andy raises in his article, please don’t hesitate to call him on 01479 831 331
Remember that Andy’s experience has been gained over 17 years of living and working in the Cairngorms. He aims to give you as much knowledge as he can while you’re here but it’s only in practicing the skills he introduces that you’ll gain proficiency yourself.
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