winter instruction Archives - Scot Mountain Holidays

Toast in the Cairngorms:

a word of mouth story from the Cairngorms (which may have grown in the telling)

The northern corries of the Cairngorms in their winter garb

A guy headed up into the Cairngorms to go winter climbing. He slipped awkwardly and broke his leg. Fortunately he had his mobile phone with him. He rang mountain rescue, who ascertained that he had all the right gear with him and he know where he was; the forecast was good but they were unable to reach him at that time and would send the helicopter in the morning.

Unbeknownst to the climber, just over the brow of the hill, out of his line of sight, was another guy who planned to camp out over night. Each was unaware of the other. The camper woke up in the morning feeling a wee bitty cold so he decided to cook himself some toast over his camping stove.

As he was eating his toast he heard the unmistakable sound of the rescue helicopter. He watched the winchman descend and pick up the stranded climber and thought: “Oh dear, there must have been someone out there all night.” However, he didn’t really think much more about it.

The climber however, was very thankful that he’d been found at last. He said to the winchman: “Thank God you came to get me. I was beginning to hallucinate. I thought I could smell toast.”

Yellow Whirlie Bird in action in the Cairngorms

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Be safe and be prepared when heading out in the hills at any time of year, especially winter.

If you are looking for some help refreshing your skills for winter, please don’t hesitate to contact us

Related blogs

1. The most amazing snow hole group

2. Why do we call it Hogmanay?

3. Where are the bears?

4. Why come to Scotland in winter?

5. How to prepare for a winter skills course?

Walking Ice Axe leashes – to have, or not to have.

Many gear shops will automatically sell you a leash as an essential and permanent accompaniment to your ice axe. Here we look at the pro’s and con’s of having a leash on your walking/general mountaineering axe. We discuss when and where it is appropriate to use one.

The fear of losing an Ice axe

There is at least one recorded instance where loosing grip of the axe during a sliding fall resulted in head injuries due to the axe flailing uncontrollably at the end of a leash. Rather than relying on a leash to retain possession of your axe, the emphasis is on instilling the mental capacity of not letting go. The hand holding the head of the axe can pivot around the head but the grasp should remain the same. It’s also about developing that mental ability of properly securing your axe should you need to put it down.

Trip hazard

Except when cutting steps down slope, you should always carry the axe in the up hill hand. On a zig-zag ascent or descent, the axe is repeatedly swapped from one hand to the other to maintain it in the uphill hand. Having to swap the leash from one wrist at every turn is cumbersome and time consuming. Wrapping the leash around the head of the axe isn’t a secure solution either. There is the risk it can start to dangle with resultant hazard of a crampon point catching and causing a trip.

Photo caption: cutting steps in the Cairngorms on a winter skills course with Scot Mountain Holidays

Step cutting

This is where a leash is desirable especially if you are cutting into hard snow or ice. Wet gloves, cutting the steps too vigorously, etc can all increase the chance of loosing grasp and this is where a leash comes into its own.

Conclusion

For winter hill walking, a leash should be minimalist, light weight and quickly attached and detached from the head of the axe. The simplest way is to make a loop in the attachment end of the leash. Thread the loop though the hole in the head of the axe. The other end of the leash is then threaded through the loop (Larks footed) and pulled tight. Store the leash in an easily accessible place like a jacket pocket and attached to the head of the axe when required.