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Your ultimate top 10 winter skills tips

Andy Bateman has instructed and guided for over 25 winter seasons across Scotland. At times its blue skies and a winter wonderland but being based in the Cairngorms he is no stranger to the sometimes uncompromising conditions that can be encountered on Scotland’s high mountains during the winter months.

Putting aside the obvious need to dress properly for the conditions, here are a few of his expert winter skills tips:

1. Carry your crampons in your rucksack

Unless your rucksack has a facility specifically for carrying crampons safely on the outside, they should be in a crampon bag inside your rucksack when not on your boots. They are heavy items of kit and can easily work loose when attached with exterior straps or bungee. Crampons carried on the outside can also be a source of injury for other members of the party e.g. in high winds.

2. Rigid B2 or B3 rated boots

The snow and ice conditions can be as varied as the weather that creates them. Don’t limit the techniques at your disposal before you’ve even set foot on the mountain by wearing bendy boots. A key and often overlooked feature of a stiff boot is that it allows you to concentrate your weight on the edges of the sole so you’re able to use them to cut into the snow surface. Your boot is as much a tool as your ice-axe or crampons. B1 “winter” boots are often too flexible to effectively kick steps in hard snow; if you try to front point, the toes tend to bend up and the heel drops causing the wearer to feel unstable. Fully rigid B3 mountaineering boots don’t feel overkill for a winter mountain walk.

 Crampons at work

3. …and pay attention to the soles

4. Length of ice axe shaft

There are a few situations where a long shaft is an advantage but they are outweighed by the number of situations where a short shafted axe is your best bet. Go for an axe with a relatively straight shaft and no longer than 55cm irrespective of your height.

 Picking our way through snow

5. Don’t be too ambitious

Remember in winter trekking your rucksack will be heavier, plus the extra weight of winter boots and crampons on your feet, the underfoot conditions and having to check the map more frequently all conspire to slow your pace. On top of this there are fewer daylight hours. It’s important that you’re not over ambitious with your route plan to prevent being caught out. Always make sure you have a decent headtorch.

 Test your limits, within your means

6. Is all that kit you’re carrying necessary?

Your rucksack is already heavier with all the necessary gear required by winter. Heavy boots, crampons and underfoot conditions will sap energy and slow you down. Don’t burden yourself further with superfluous kit by considering whether an item is really necessary for the day. At the same time, be sure you have everything you need.

 Full moon Snow-hole Expedition winter gear

7. Hydration bladders can easily freeze

Even with an insulated jacket around the tube, once the temperature drops below -3 deg C hydration bladders tend to easily freeze. You are better off with a water bottle in your sack as close to your back as possible to receive a little body heat. Better still take a thermos flask.

8. Ice axe leashes

There are situations where an ice axe leash is an advantage but there are also a good number of situations where they can be a hazard. Have an arrangement where the leash can be easily added or removed from the head of the axe, i.e. tie a loop in the end of the leash and larks-foot it through the head of the axe. When you aren’t cutting steps or climbing the leash is probably best kept in your rucksack.

9. Cold hands?

Remember, as your core temperature cools your body reduces its circulation to your extremities, like your hands. If you have cold hands, it may well be worth considering putting an extra layer on, as well as warmer gloves. If the body is compensating for a cooling core, to a certain extent, it doesn’t matter how well insulated your hands are, it’s not going to send anymore warm blood to the extremities.

10. Take regular short breaks

Your body can burn up 40% more calories just by keeping itself warm. Underfoot conditions and heavy gear add to your body’s energy demands. Standing around for more than 10 minutes can mean folks start to get chilled. Schedule-in regular breaks where possible. I find a 10 min break after approximately every 80 min of walking is optimal. You need good judgement and one of the most sensitive organs in your body to a drop in temperature or a lack of energy is your brain. It needs to be well nourished by both.

Striding out to conquer the winter Cairngorms

Why do it? Because this is why it’s worth it.